BharatSangraha

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Desh · Deccan Inland Plateau

व्यंजन

Three kitchens sharing a bread. The Pune and Wai household kitchen, goda-masala based, sweetish, heavy on peanut and jaggery and largely vegetarian. The Kolhapur kitchen at the ghat foot, built on kanda-lasun masala and mutton, and unembarrassed about heat. And the field kitchen of the whole plateau — bhakri, pithla, thecha, raw onion — which is what most of the region actually eats most days, and which the wari feeds to a million people for three weeks a year.

Jowar bhakriज्वारीची भाकरीशाकाहारीBread

A hand-patted unleavened sorghum round, thicker and more brittle than a roti, eaten hot because it turns leathery within the hour. It carries no fat, which is why it pairs with something oily or fiercely seasoned — pithla, thecha, or a rassa.

PithlaशाकाहारीMain

Gram flour whisked into buttermilk or water with garlic, green chilli and a tempering of mustard and asafoetida, cooked loose (patal) or thick (ghatt). Five minutes from an empty kitchen to a full plate.

ThechaशाकाहारीRelish

Green chilli, garlic, salt and roasted groundnut pounded coarse in a stone mortar. Served in a spoonful beside the bhakri; the groundnut is there to carry the capsaicin, not to soften it.

ZunkaशाकाहारीMain

Pithla's dry sibling — gram flour cooked down with onion and garlic until it crumbles rather than pours. Zunka-bhakar became a political shorthand in Maharashtra in the 1990s when subsidised stalls were opened under that name.

MisalशाकाहारीBreakfast

Sprouted matki usal under a fiery thin gravy, topped with farsan, raw onion, coriander and lime, eaten with pav. The Kolhapuri version floats a separate layer of red kat or tarri that is poured on at the table and refilled free; the Puneri version is built on kande pohe rather than sprouts alone and runs sweeter and tangier. The two are argued about seriously.

कहाँ चखें: Khasbag Misal in Kolhapur; Bedekar Misal in Narayan Peth, Pune.

Tambda rassaतांबडा रस्सामांसाहारीMain

Kolhapur's red mutton broth — stock cooked out with kanda-lasun masala and Sankeshwari chilli, thin enough to drink from the bowl and hot enough that the oil slick on top is the point.

Pandhra rassaपांढरा रस्सामांसाहारीMain

The same pot's white counterpart — mutton stock with coconut milk, cashew or poppy seed and white pepper, served alongside the red so the meal alternates between them. The pairing exists to make a very hot meal survivable.

Mutton sukkaमांसाहारीMain

Mutton cooked dry with roasted dry coconut and kanda-lasun masala until the gravy clings. The third plate of the Kolhapuri thali, after the two rassas.

Varan and amtiशाकाहारीMain

The same tur dal in two moods — varan is plain, with ghee and salt, eaten first with rice; amti is soured with tamarind, sweetened with jaggery and finished with goda masala. The sweet-sour-hot balance of amti is the clearest signature of the Pune household kitchen.

Bharli vangiशाकाहारीMain

Small brinjals slit and stuffed with a paste of roasted groundnut, dry coconut, goda masala and jaggery, then cooked in their own stuffing. Groundnut where the Konkan would use fresh coconut.

Sabudana khichdiशाकाहारीFasting food

Soaked sago pearls tossed with crushed roasted groundnut, green chilli, cumin and potato. It is upvas food — eaten on Ekadashi, which is observed twice a month across the Varkari countryside, so a fasting dish here is ordinary weekday cooking rather than an exception.

Puran poliशाकाहारीSweet

A flatbread stuffed with a cooked paste of chana dal and jaggery, scented with cardamom and nutmeg, rolled thin and eaten with ghee or with hot milk. Made at Holi and Gudi Padwa, and the standard test of a household cook.

Kande poheशाकाहारीBreakfast

Flattened rice softened with water and tossed with onion, turmeric, mustard and green chilli, finished with lime, coconut and coriander. The default Maharashtrian breakfast, and by long custom what is served when families meet to discuss a marriage.

KharvasशाकाहारीDessert

A soft set custard made from the colostrum of a newly calved cow or buffalo, steamed with jaggery or sugar and cardamom. It can only be made in the days after a calving, which ties it to the dairy belt and to a window nobody controls.

BakarwadiशाकाहारीSnack

A spiral of spiced dough rolled around a dry filling of coconut, sesame, poppy seed and masala, deep-fried to keep for weeks. Pune's contribution to the Indian tin of snacks.

कहाँ चखें: Chitale Bandhu Mithaiwale, Pune.

MastaniशाकाहारीDessert

A Pune invention — a thick milkshake with ice cream, dry fruit and often jelly, served so dense that it is eaten with a spoon. Named after Bajirao I's second wife; the name is local branding of the Peshwa past, not an eighteenth-century recipe.

कहाँ चखें: Sujata Mastani, Sadashiv Peth, Pune.

मुख्य आहार

Jowar and bajra bhakriRice with varan and gheePithla and zunkaMatki, hulga and chavali usalTaak (spiced buttermilk) with the midday mealRaw onion, crushed by hand at the table

मिठाइयाँ

Puran poliKharvasBasundi and shrikhandSatara kandi pedhaUkadiche modak at GaneshotsavAnarse and chirote at DiwaliGulachi poli, made with jaggery rather than chana dal

स्ट्रीट फ़ूड

Misal pavVada pav and bhajji, adopted from the coast and now universalKande pohe and sabudana vada at bus standsBhel and churmure with thechaKolhapuri bhadang, puffed rice with garlic and chilliDabeli at the Karnataka edge

पेय

Taak and mattha, salted and spiced buttermilkKokam sarbat, at the ghat foot onlySugarcane juice with lime and ginger, from the cane beltMastani and cold coffee in PuneAmrakhand and piyush, curd-based summer drinks

Desh का खानपान — ख़ास व्यंजन, मुख्य आहार, मिठाइयाँ, स्ट्रीट फ़ूड और उन्हें कहाँ चखें। (16)