Dress and textiles

Ghagra, choli and odhniWomen

A wide gathered skirt, a fitted blouse and a long veil drawn across the head and shoulder. The ghagra's fullness and the odhni's dye pattern are the regional signature.

Worn for: Everyday and festive

Safa and pagriMen

Turbans running to around nine metres of cloth, tied differently in each region — the flat wide Jodhpuri safa, the pointed Jaipuri pagri, the checked Mewari. Exchanging turbans is a formal bond between families.

Worn for: Weddings, fairs, formal occasions

Angrakha and dhotiMen

A cross-over tunic tied at the side over a dhoti or churidar, the ancestor of the modern angarkha kurta.

Worn for: Traditional and ceremonial

Jodhpuri (bandhgala) and jodhpursMen

The tailored high-collared coat, and the flared-thigh, tight-calf riding trouser that took the city's name into English when Jodhpur's polo team wore them to England.

Worn for: Formal

PomchaWomen

A yellow odhni with a red or dark lotus-pattern bandhani centre, given to a woman after the birth of a child.

Worn for: Childbirth and Gangaur

BandhaniGI tagJodhpur, Sikar, Jaipur, Barmer

Tie-resist dyeing in which thousands of points are tied off with thread by hand — often by women, with a fingernail grown long for the purpose — before dyeing. Pattern density is the measure of quality.

LeheriyaJaipur, Jodhpur

Diagonal wave-stripe resist dyeing done by rolling the cloth into a rope and binding it at intervals. Worn especially in the monsoon and at Teej.

Sanganeri hand block printGI tagJaipur

Fine, delicate floral block printing on a white or pale ground, historically for the finer end of the market.

Bagru hand block printGI tagJaipur

Earthier printing on a dyed ground using mud-resist (dabu) and natural indigo and madder, with bolder motifs than Sanganer.

Kota DoriaGI tagKota (Kaithun)

An almost weightless cotton-silk with a fine square check (khat) formed by alternating thread counts. Woven on pit looms in and around Kaithun.

ThewaGI tagPratapgarh

Sheet gold worked into an openwork design and fused onto coloured glass — a technique held within a single family lineage for over 250 years.