BharatSangraha

Antarved Doab · Upper Indus–Gangetic Plain

Shops and premises

Thaggu ke LadduKanpursince 1930s

Laddu and 'badnaam kulfi'

The signboards, which insult the shop and its customers in verse, are as much the point as the sweets.

Netram Moolchand and Hari ki KachoriPrayagraj (Loknath gali)

Kachori, dahi-bada and tamatar chaat

Two counters a few doors apart, and the argument about which is better is a local sport.

Bushy's and the old Civil Lines bakeriesPrayagraj

Allahabadi cake, patties and rusk

The Christmas cake is baked from October and sold until the fruit runs out.

Ram Chandra and the Meerut gajak shopsMeerut

Gajak, rewri and sesame brittle

Made only from October to March; the summer shops sell something else entirely.

The Kannauj attar housesKannauj

Mitti attar, shamama, ruh gulab and khus

Several hundred distilleries, most of them family firms working copper degs. Buy by smelling on skin, never from a bottle label.

Aligarh lock workshopsAligarh

Padlocks, lever locks and brass hardware

A wholesale market of small units; the trade sells by weight and by mechanism, not by brand.

The Firozabad bangle marketFirozabad

Glass bangles by the box

Bought in sets of dozens; the joining, cutting and decorating are done in different workshops.

Famous shops, markets and workshops in Antarved Doab, and what each is known for. (7)