BharatSangraha

Antarved Doab · Upper Indus–Gangetic Plain

Foodways

A wheat, dairy and sugar foodway, and the last of those is the distinguishing one. The Doab produces more sugarcane than anywhere else in India, and the household year is organised around it — fresh juice in summer, rab and fresh gur through the crushing season, and gur, shakkar and khandsari stored for the rest of the year. Where Awadh next door cooks for aroma, the Doab cooks for bulk and keeping: fried breads, gram-flour snacks, dry sweets that survive a bus journey, and a very large amount of milk.

Primary cooking medium

Desi ghee, especially at the northern endMustard oil for everyday cooking and picklingVanaspati in the commercial sweet and snack trade

Dominant sour agents

AmchurDahi and chhachhLemonKanji — black carrot and mustard fermented in winterTamarind in the chaat kitchen

Spice register

Straightforward and hot-forward rather than aromatic: coriander, cumin, red chilli, turmeric and a heavy hand on asafoetida and dried mango in the vegetarian kitchen. Chaat masala — black salt, dried mango, roasted cumin and pepper — is essentially a Doab invention, and the region's contribution to the way the rest of India eats snacks.

Staple grains and carbs

Wheat, the dominant crop and stapleRice in the canal-irrigated tractsBarley and gramBajra and jowar on the sandy bhur soils

Preservation methods

Gur, shakkar and khandsari — cane sugar in its keeping formsKanji, fermented through the winter in earthen jars in the sunAam, nimbu and mirch achar in mustard oilPapad and badiyanKhoya, and mawa sweets made to travel

Signature techniques

Kolhu crushing and gur boiling

Cane is crushed at a village kolhu and the juice boiled down in a chain of open iron pans, skimmed, and poured into moulds as it thickens. Rab is the syrup stage, shakkar the granulated stage, gur the set block. The furnaces run day and night from November to March and are the season's social centre as much as its workplace.

Also found in: Haryana Bangar & Bagar, Rohilkhand & Katehar

Deg-and-bhapka distillation

Flowers, roots and spices are distilled in copper stills at Kannauj and the vapour received directly into a base of sandalwood oil, over dozens of cycles. It is hydrodistillation without a condenser, and it is how attar has been made here for centuries; the mitti attar distils baked earth itself.

Also found in: Awadh

Chaat assembly

A cold, sour-sweet-hot assembly built at the counter — fried base, boiled filling, two chutneys, curd, and a spice mix keyed to black salt and dried mango. It is a technique of proportion and order rather than of cooking, and the Prayagraj and Kanpur counters treat it as such.

Also found in: Braj, Bhojpur & Purvanchal

Bhatti roasting for sattu and chana

Grain and gram roasted in hot sand in an iron bhatti, then sieved and ground. The sand carries the heat evenly and never touches the grain's inside — the same principle as the eastern sattu tradition, at its western limit.

Also found in: Bhojpur & Purvanchal, Magadh

Winter kanji fermentation

Black carrot, beetroot and mustard seed left in water in an earthen jar in full sun for a week until it turns sharp and slightly effervescent. A lacto-fermented drink made only in the cold months.

Also found in: Punjab Doabs, Haryana Bangar & Bagar

The foodway signature of Antarved Doab — cooking medium, souring agents, spice register, staple grains and the techniques that define it. (5)