BharatSangraha

Rohilkhand & Katehar · Upper Indus–Gangetic Plain

Dress and textiles

Rampur's court dress and the Rohilla military inheritance kept a distinct men's wardrobe here — the angarkha and the Rampuri cap — while Bareilly's zardozi workshops supplied the embroidery. In the terai the Tharu wardrobe is unrelated to any of it: a wrapped lehnga, heavy silver, and tattooing that used to be near-universal among women.

What is worn

Rampuri topi and angarkhaMen

A flat brimless cap worn with a side-tied coat — the Rohilla and Rampuri court form, still worn in the older quarters and at religious gatherings.

Worn for: Formal and everyday in the old city

Sherwani and churidarMen

Tailored in Rampur and Bareilly with local zardozi, worn across the region's Muslim households and by the qasbah gentry generally.

Worn for: Weddings and formal

Ghagra, kurti and odhnaWomen, rural

The Katehari village wardrobe, close to the Doab's, giving way to the sari in the towns.

Worn for: Everyday

Tharu lehnga and choliTharu women

A short wrapped skirt in dark cloth with a bordered choli and a heavy silver neck ring, worn with layered silver at the ankle and forearm. Distinct from anything worn on the plain below.

Worn for: Everyday and festival

Weaves and textiles

Bareilly zari and zardoziBareilly

Metal-thread embroidery on an adda frame, supplying the wedding and export trade — one of the largest zari clusters in Uttar Pradesh after Lucknow and Varanasi.

Rampur applique and velvet workRampur

Court-derived applique and metal-thread work on velvet, historically for canopies, cushions and processional trappings.

Tharu handloomUdham Singh Nagar, Pilibhit

Coarse cotton weaving and grass matting made within Tharu households, with geometric borders in indigo and madder.

Jewellery

Heavy silver hansli and hasli among Tharu womenJhumka — Bareilly's jhumka is a national reference, thanks to one film songNath and karanphoolGold worn as savings in the trading towns

Traditional dress of Rohilkhand & Katehar — garments, handloom weaves, GI-tagged textiles and jewellery. (7)