BharatSangraha

Nanjil Nadu · Eastern Coastal Plains

Dress and textiles

The region has no weaving cluster of its own and has never needed one — it buys kasavu-bordered cotton from the looms a short distance up the coast and Kanchipuram silk for weddings from the other direction, which is itself the clearest statement of where it sits. What it does have is a decisive piece of clothing history: the Channar agitations over the right of lower-caste women to cover the upper body ran through these taluks from the 1820s and were settled by a Travancore proclamation in 1859. Dress here was a legal question within living memory of the grandparents of people now alive.

What is worn

Veshti and thunduMen

A white cotton wrap worn ankle-length or folded to the knee, with a thin towel over the shoulder. The gold-bordered version is worn to temple and to a wedding, and the border width is the formality marker.

Worn for: Everyday and formal

Set munduOlder women, and Malayalam-speaking households

The two-piece Travancore wrap, still worn in the Malayalam-speaking taluks and by older women across the district, alongside the saree that is the everyday garment elsewhere in it.

Worn for: Festival, temple, family occasions

Kasavu-bordered cotton sareeWomen

Off-white cotton with a gold border, worn for temple festivals — the Kerala palette in a Tamil district, and one of the few visual cues that reads instantly to a visitor from either side.

Worn for: Kodai, Onam, weddings

Fisherwomen's working dressWomen of the coastal parishes

A saree hitched short for wading and carrying, with a head pad for the basket. The coastal villages are Latin Catholic and their dress conventions differ visibly from the inland ones a few kilometres away.

Worn for: Everyday, at the landings and markets

Kavi mundu of the Ayyavazhi observanceFollowers of Ayyavazhi

Plain white cloth and a white turban worn at the Swamithope pathi and its branch shrines, with the absence of ornament as the point.

Worn for: Worship at pathis and nizhal thangals

Weaves and textiles

Kasavu cotton, bought rather than wovenKanyakumari

The gold-bordered cotton worn at every festival here is woven in the Travancore handloom villages up the coast and sold across Nagercoil and Marthandam. The region consumes the textile tradition of its neighbour without having reproduced it.

Palmyra and screw pine plaitingKanyakumari

Mats, baskets, winnows and the head pads the fish carriers use, plaited from palmyra leaf and screw pine. A household craft rather than a market one, and mostly practised by women.

Jewellery

Temple jewellery from the Nagercoil workshops, made for dancers and for deitiesThali strung on a yellow thread, in forms that differ between the Hindu, Christian and Ayyavazhi householdsJimikki and long chain earrings of the Travancore typeKolusu and metti in silverGold-plated stone-set work over a lac core, the Nagercoil speciality

Traditional dress of Nanjil Nadu — garments, handloom weaves, GI-tagged textiles and jewellery. (7)