BharatSangraha

Tier 2 · Cultural region · Deccan Inland Plateau

Vidarbha

विदर्भ

Cotton on black soil, mandarins on red, and a mass conversion in 1956 that made this the centre of Buddhist India.

Vidarbha is the part of Marathi country that was administered from the north and east rather than from Bombay — Berar was handed to British administration in 1853 and the rest sat in the Central Provinces, which is why its Marathi carries Hindi habits and its cities were built for moving cotton. It has the hottest kitchen in Maharashtra, in two distinct fiery registers; the country's largest mandarin belt, grown on a deliberate water-stress cycle; a Gond history that predates any Marathi one and survives as a living language in the eastern forests; and Deekshabhoomi, where in 1956 Ambedkar and several lakh followers took Buddhist ordination in a single afternoon.

Indigenous scope
The Wainganga and Wardha country, draining south through the Pranahita into the Godavari, and bounded on the north by the Satpura's Gawilgarh scarp. It is two landscapes joined at the middle — the Payanghat trough in the west, a deep black regur plain several metres thick that grows cotton without irrigation and cracks open when the rain stops, and in the east a lateritic country of teak and bamboo forest studded with several thousand man-made tanks, where the crop is rice. Its edges are where Varhadi and Zadi Boli stop being the default — westward across the Purna–Tapi divide the speech turns Khandeshi, southward across the Painganga it turns Marathwadi, eastward it meets Halbi and Chhattisgarhi, and along the Pranahita it meets Gondi and Telugu. Gondi is not a substrate here; in the eastern forests it is the household language.
Overlapping states
MaharashtraTelanganaMadhya Pradesh
Micro-regions and eco-zones
Nagpur Orange Belt · Kanhan and Wardha valley uplandsVarhad Cotton Plain · Payanghat — the Purna trough of deep black regurGadchiroli Forest · Teak, bamboo and sal forest on the Wainganga–Indravati interfluve
Languages
Marathi, in its Varhadi and Zadi registers, Gondi and Madia, Hindi, Halbi, Kolami, Urdu, and Telugu along the Pranahita

Vidarbha is the part of Marathi country that was governed from somewhere else for long enough to change how it speaks. Berar went to British administration in 1853 and the rest sat in the Central Provinces with its capital at Nagpur, so the cities were laid out to move cotton, the railways were built to trunk routes rather than to a port, and the Marathi absorbed Hindi habits that Bombay Deccan Marathi never picked up. Marathwada, on the other side of the Painganga, spent the same century inside Hyderabad State. Two neighbouring Marathi regions, ninety-five years of different administration, and you can still hear it in a single word for a land-record clerk.

Underneath that is a much older layer that has nothing to do with Marathi at all. The Gond kingdoms held this country from Chandrapur and Deogarh, the language is still spoken at home in the eastern forests, and the rocks around Chandrapur gave geology the word Gondwana. On top of it is the newest layer in this atlas — on one October afternoon in 1956 several lakh people at Nagpur became Buddhists, and the region acquired a pilgrimage, a song repertoire and a ceremonial dress that are all younger than the Republic.

Terrain and eco-zones

Hot semi-arid in the west, sub-humid in the east, and among the most extreme temperature regimes in India. Nagpur, Akola and Chandrapur regularly record the country's highest May maxima at 46–48 °C, because the region sits far from any coast at low elevation with a shallow, heat-retentive soil. Rainfall climbs from about 700–900 mm in the Payanghat to 1,200–1,600 mm in the Gadchiroli forests — a doubling across one region, and the reason one half grows cotton and the other rice.

Landforms

Payanghat — the Purna trough, black regur several metres deep, effectively levelGawilgarh hills, the Satpura's southern edge, rising to about 1,177 m at Bairat, the region's high pointThe Wainganga–Wardha plain, undulating, with laterite caps in the eastGondwana sedimentary basins around Chandrapur and Ballarshah, carrying the coalLonar — a hypervelocity meteorite impact crater in basalt, about 1.8 km across at the rimSeveral thousand malguzari tanks in Bhandara, Gondia and Chandrapur, an engineered landscape rather than a natural one

Rivers and waters

Wainganga — the eastern axis, rising in Madhya Pradesh and running the length of the regionWardha — the western axis, and the boundary with Telangana along part of its lower coursePranahita — formed where the Wardha and Wainganga meet, and one of the Godavari's largest tributariesPainganga — the southern boundary river, and the line where Varhadi speech gives way to MarathwadiPurna — the Payanghat's own river, draining west to the Tapi rather than southKanhan, Pench, Bagh and Indravati

Through the year

SeasonMonthsTypicalWhat it is like
WinterNovember–February8–30 °CCold enough for frost in the Melghat. The orange harvest is on, the Zadipatti theatre season opens after the paddy is in, and this is the only comfortable window for the forest districts.
SummerMarch–mid June27–48 °CBrutal, and the reason Vidarbha appears in national weather bulletins. Tiger sightings peak in May because the animals concentrate at the few remaining water sources — the same heat that empties the towns fills the parks.
Monsoonmid-June–September24–34 °CThe cotton and soybean season. Almost none of the cotton is irrigated, so the crop is decided by whether the rain holds through the boll-formation weeks in August and September.
Post-monsoonOctober20–33 °CRice harvest in the east, orange sizing in the west, and the Dhamma Chakra Pravartan gathering at Nagpur.

Best time to visitNovember to February for everything except tiger sightings, which are best in April and May if the heat is survivable. Mid-October if the point is Deekshabhoomi on the day. The Gadchiroli forests are effectively closed by the monsoon.

History

Vidarbha's periods do not line up with the rest of Marathi country, and the reason is administrative rather than cultural. Its ancient period is the most substantial in Maharashtra outside the Konkan ports, because the Vakatakas actually ruled from here, from Nandivardhana near Ramtek and from Vatsagulma, which is Washim. Its medieval period runs on two tracks that rarely meet: Berar in the west, which passed from Bahmani to Imad Shahi to Ahmadnagar to Mughal to Nizam, and the Gond kingdoms of Chanda and Deogarh in the east, which were indigenous, long-lived and very thinly documented. Its modern period begins in 1853, not 1818: in that single year Berar was assigned to British administration and the Bhonsle state at Nagpur lapsed to the Company. From 1861 the region was governed from Nagpur as the capital of the Central Provinces rather than from Bombay, which is why its Marathi took on Hindi habits and its towns were laid out to move cotton.

Periodisation is regional, not national — the medieval period does not begin in the same century here as it does elsewhere in India.

Ancientc. 500 BCE – c. 1000 CE

Vidarbha is named in Sanskrit literature as a janapada, with Kundinapura as its city, and the identification with Kaundinyapur on the Wardha is traditional rather than proven. What is archaeologically solid begins with the Buddhist stupa site at Pauni on the Wainganga and continues into the Vakataka period, which is the region's high point in the record. From about 250 to about 510 the Vakatakas ruled from two capitals inside this region, and the marriage of Rudrasena II to Prabhavatigupta, daughter of the Gupta emperor Chandragupta II, produced the single best-documented regency in early Deccan history: after her husband's early death she governed for her sons for roughly twenty years, issuing grants in her own name. The Vatsagulma branch at Washim produced Harisena, under whose patronage the later caves at Ajanta, over the range in the Godavari country, were excavated.

WhenWhat happened
c. 2nd century BCEA brick stupa with a stone railing is built at Pauni on the Wainganga, the earliest substantial Buddhist site in the region.
c. 250 CEVindhyashakti founds the Vakataka line; almost nothing is recorded of him beyond the name.
c. 270–330Pravarasena I extends Vakataka territory and is the only ruler of the line to call himself samrat.
c. 380Rudrasena II marries Prabhavatigupta, daughter of the Gupta emperor Chandragupta II; the alliance ties the Deccan court to the north.
c. 385–405Prabhavatigupta governs as regent for her sons from Nandivardhana, near the present Nagardhan below Ramtek, issuing land grants in her own name.
c. 475–500Harisena rules the Vatsagulma branch from Washim; the later Ajanta caves are excavated under Vakataka patronage associated with him. His regnal dates are disputed and are given variously from about 460 onwards.
c. 500Vakataka power ends, and the region passes under a succession of larger Deccan empires ruling from outside it.

Medievalc. 1000 – 1739

For seven centuries the west and the east of this region were separate countries. Berar, the Payanghat cotton plain, went with whichever power held the northern Deccan: Yadava, then Delhi, then Bahmani, then in 1490 an independent Imad Shahi sultanate at Ellichpur, then Ahmadnagar from 1574, then the Mughals from 1596, then the Asaf Jahi state after 1724. The eastern forests went a different way entirely. Gond dynasties held Chanda, on the Wardha near its junction with the Wainganga, and Deogarh in the northern hills, for several centuries; they built the walled city at Chandrapur, extended the tank irrigation that still defines the Wainganga country, and left far less written record than any of the sultanates, which is why the region's longest-ruling dynasty is also its least documented. The two tracks meet only in 1739, when a succession dispute at Deogarh brought in Raghuji Bhonsle.

WhenWhat happened
13th centuryThe Seuna Yadavas of Devagiri hold the western plain; their authority ends with the Khalji expeditions at the turn of the fourteenth century.
c. 1437–1495Khandkya Ballal Shah of the Gond line founds Chandrapur at the meeting of the Irai and the Zarpat and begins its fortification; the sources give his reign variously as 1437 to 1462 and 1470 to 1495.
1490Fathullah Imad-ul-Mulk establishes an independent sultanate in Berar with its capital at Ellichpur, one of the five states into which the Bahmani Sultanate broke up.
16th centuryRani Hirai, widow of the Gond ruler of Chandrapur, completes the city's fortification wall, which still stands with four main gates.
1574Berar is annexed by Ahmadnagar under Murtaza Nizam Shah, and the Imad Shahi line ends.
1596Berar is ceded to the Mughals under the settlement that followed the Mughal siege of Ahmadnagar.
1702Bakht Buland Shah of the Gond kingdom of Deogarh founds Nagpur by joining together twelve villages on the Nag.
1724Asaf Jah establishes his independent authority in the Deccan after the battle at Shakar Kheda, in the Buldhana country at the western end of this region; Berar is administered from Hyderabad thereafter.
1739The death of Chand Sultan at Deogarh brings in Raghuji Bhonsle, and Maratha authority replaces Gond in the eastern half of the region.

Modern1739 – 1947

The Bhonsle state at Nagpur was built quickly and lost in stages. Raghuji I took Deogarh, Chanda and Chhattisgarh by 1751 and sent armies east into Bengal and Orissa; the cession of Cuttack dates from that period. Defeat at Argaon and the storming of Gawilgarh in 1803 cost the state Cuttack, southern Berar and Sambalpur under the Treaty of Deogaon; Sitabuldi in 1817 cost it the rest of its independence; and in 1853 Raghuji III died without a recognised heir and the state lapsed to the Company. Berar was assigned to British administration in the same year. From 1861 Nagpur was the capital of the Central Provinces, and the region's modern shape follows from that: railways built to trunk routes rather than to a port, cotton markets in every district town, coal at Chandrapur, and a political life that ran through Nagpur and the Central Provinces rather than through Bombay. From 1936 the region also held the national leadership itself, because Gandhi lived at Sevagram outside Wardha, and the Quit India resolution was drafted there in July 1942.

WhenWhat happened
1739–1755Raghuji Bhonsle I rules at Nagpur, taking Deogarh, Chanda and Chhattisgarh by 1751 and campaigning east into Bengal and Orissa, from which the cession of Cuttack follows.
1803Raghuji II is defeated at Argaon and Gawilgarh is stormed; by the Treaty of Deogaon the state cedes Cuttack, southern Berar and Sambalpur.
26–27 November 1817Bhonsle troops under Appa Sahib are defeated at Sitabuldi outside Nagpur; he is reinstated, then deposed the following year.
11 December 1853Raghuji III dies without a recognised heir and Nagpur is annexed under the doctrine of lapse; in the same year Berar is assigned to British administration.
1861Nagpur becomes the capital of the newly constituted Central Provinces, and the region is governed from within itself for the first time since the Vakatakas.
December 1920The Congress session at Nagpur adopts the non-cooperation programme and reorganises the party on linguistic provincial lines.
1923A satyagraha at Nagpur against a prohibition on carrying the national flag draws volunteers from several provinces and is settled by negotiation.
April 1936Gandhi settles at Segaon, which he renames Sevagram, on land near Wardha made available by Jamnalal Bajaj, and the village becomes the working centre of the national movement.
14 July 1942The Congress Working Committee, meeting at Wardha, adopts the resolution that becomes the Quit India demand.

Rulers and commanders

Prabhavatigupta Maharani, ruling as regent Regent c. 385–405

Daughter of the Gupta emperor Chandragupta II and widow of Rudrasena II, she governed the Vakataka kingdom for roughly twenty years on behalf of her young sons and issued land grants in her own name. Her charters are among the most-cited documents in early Deccan history because they show a woman exercising sovereign functions and because they date the Gupta-Vakataka connection precisely.

Dynasty: Vakataka, by marriage; Gupta by birth. Seat: Nandivardhana, near Ramtek

Harisena Maharaja Ruler c. 475–500, dates disputed

The last major ruler of the western branch, and the patron under whom the later caves at Ajanta, across the range in the Godavari country, were excavated. The regnal dates are contested; some scholars place his reign from about 460.

Dynasty: Vakataka, Vatsagulma branch. Seat: Vatsagulma (Washim)

Fathullah Imad-ul-Mulk Sultan Founder 1490–1504

Established Berar as an independent sultanate in 1490 as the Bahmani state broke up, with its capital at Ellichpur below the Gawilgarh hills.

Dynasty: Imad Shahi. Seat: Ellichpur (Achalpur)

Khandkya Ballal Shah Raja Founder 15th century, dates given variously

Founded Chandrapur at the meeting of the Irai and the Zarpat and began the fortification of the city. The Gond dynasty of Chanda is the longest-ruling line in the region and the least documented; even its regnal years are given differently by different sources.

Dynasty: Gond kings of Chanda. Seat: Chandrapur

Rani Hirai Rani Regent 16th century

Completed the fortification wall around Chandrapur after her husband's death; the circuit, with four main gates and five smaller openings, still stands.

Dynasty: Gond kings of Chanda. Seat: Chandrapur

Bakht Buland Shah Raja Ruler c. 1700

Founded Nagpur in 1702 by joining twelve villages on the Nag into a single town, and encouraged cultivators and craftsmen to settle in it. The largest city in central India begins as a Gond administrative decision.

Dynasty: Gond kingdom of Deogarh. Seat: Deogarh, and Nagpur

Raghuji Bhonsle I Senasahibsubha Founder 1739–1755

Came into the Deogarh succession dispute of 1739 and stayed, taking Deogarh, Chanda and Chhattisgarh by 1751 and establishing the state that governed the region until 1853. His armies campaigned east into Bengal and Orissa, and the cession of Cuttack to Nagpur dates from those years.

Dynasty: Bhonsle of Nagpur. Seat: Nagpur

The malguzars of the Wainganga country Malguzar, a village revenue proprietorship Administrator confirmed under the Central Provinces settlements from the 1860s

In the eastern districts the unit of authority was the village revenue proprietor rather than a ruling house. The Central Provinces settlements confirmed malguzars as proprietors, and with the proprietorship went responsibility for several thousand irrigation tanks, many of them older than the office itself. That is why they are still called malguzari tanks, and why an engineered landscape of that size has no single builder's name attached to it.

Dynasty: An office confirmed by settlement, not a dynasty. Seat: Bhandara, Gondia and Chandrapur

Foodways

Vidarbha runs the hottest kitchen in Maharashtra and it does so in two separate registers that locals never confuse. Varhadi is the household style of the cotton plain — dark, dry-coconut-and-sesame heavy, close to Marathwada's but hotter and looser. Saoji is a professional style that came out of the Savji weaver community's eating houses in Nagpur, and its distinguishing feature is not chilli but poppy seed and black pepper ground with roasted dry coconut into a paste that emulsifies the fat, so the gravy stays thin and glossy while carrying an enormous spice load. The tell is the finish — a saoji rassa leaves a numbing pepper heat at the back of the throat rather than the front-of-tongue burn of a Kolhapuri. In the eastern forest districts none of this applies. There the pantry is rice, bamboo shoot, mahua and tank fish.

Primary cooking medium

Groundnut oil, used generously and not skimmed off the finished dishSoybean oil, which followed the crop into the region from the 1990sMahua seed oil in the forest districtsGhee, for sweets and for the Buddhist and temple kitchens

Dominant sour agents

Tamarind, the primary sour in both the Varhadi and saoji stylesAmbadi (roselle) leaves, cooked as a sour green through the monsoonRaw mango and amchur in summerCurd and buttermilk in kadhi and in the plain village mealThe natural sourness of fermented bamboo shoot, in the east

Spice register

Very hot, and hot in two different ways. Varhadi heat comes from dry red chilli in quantity, over a base of roasted dry coconut, sesame, coriander and dagad phool. Saoji heat comes from black pepper and long pepper as much as from chilli, with poppy seed and dry coconut as the body and stone flower and star anise in the aromatics. Against its neighbours — Marathwada blacker and drier, Kolhapur redder and more garlic-forward, Khandesh sweeter with more onion — Vidarbha is oilier and more peppery than any of them, and it is the only one of the four where a serious cook keeps two different masalas.

Staple grains and carbs

Jowar and wheat across the cotton plainRice through the eastern districts, including the aromatic Chinnor of Bhandara and GondiaTur, the region's pulse, intercropped with cotton on the same black soilSoybean, now the largest kharif crop by area in parts of the PayanghatKodo and kutki millets in the forest belt, where they persist alongside rice

Preservation methods

Bamboo shoot cut in the monsoon, salted and fermented or sun-dried for the yearMahua flowers dried on the ground under the tree in March and April, then stored in sacksDried tank fish from the Bhandara and Gondia watersSandge, kurdai and papad made in the March heat and fried through the yearWhole dry chilli bought at Bhiwapur or Nagpur and ground into the year's masala

Signature techniques

Saoji masala grinding

Poppy seed, dry coconut, black pepper, dagad phool, star anise and the cassia-clove group are roasted separately and ground wet with fried onion into a dark paste. The poppy seed and coconut are the mechanism — their oil and starch hold the gravy in suspension, so a very large quantity of spice can be carried in a thin liquid without thickening it. Every khanavali family's proportions differ and none of them are written down.

Also found in: Bayaluseeme

Tarri skimming

The pot of chana or mutton is left to stand so the spiced oil separates and rises. That layer is skimmed off as tarri and served separately — poured over poha at breakfast, or set beside the rassa so each eater loads their own heat. It is a serving technique rather than a cooking one, and it exists because the fat carries the capsaicin and the spice aroma while the gravy below carries the salt and body.

Also found in: Marathwada

Patodi setting

Gram flour is cooked with water and spice until it pulls from the pan, spread on a plate, cooled until firm, then cut into diamonds and dropped into a thin rassa. Setting the besan before saucing it is the entire point — it turns what would otherwise be pithla into something with an edge and a bite that survives the gravy.

Also found in: Marathwada, Nimar

Bamboo shoot fermentation

Young shoots are cut in the first weeks of the monsoon, sliced, packed with salt and left to sour in a covered pot, or sliced and sun-dried. Fresh bamboo shoot contains cyanogenic compounds; the boiling, salting and drying that precede any use are a detoxification step first and a flavour step second.

Also found in: Bastar, Mahakoshal & Gondwana

Mahua drying

The corolla of Madhuca longifolia drops at night in March and April and is swept up at dawn before it ferments on the ground. Dried, it is roughly half sugar by weight and keeps for a year — a stored calorie supply, a sweetener, a livestock feed and the base for a distillate, from a tree nobody planted.

Also found in: Bastar, Mahakoshal & Gondwana, Chhattisgarh Plains

Bhakar patting

The jowar flatbread, patted by hand because the flour has no gluten and cannot be rolled, then finished on coals so it puffs. Varhadi calls it bhakar rather than bhakri, which is one of the quickest ways to place a speaker.

Also found in: Marathwada, Nimar

Dishes

The everyday plate in the cotton plain is bhakar, a dry vegetable, a thin dal, thecha and raw onion. The Sunday plate is mutton or country chicken in a fierce thin rassa. The Nagpur plate is whatever the khanavali is cooking and it will be hotter than you expect. In the eastern forest districts the plate is rice with a green, a tank fish or a bamboo-shoot curry, and the spicing is far lighter than anything to the west.

Saoji mutton rassaNon-vegetarianMain

Goat on the bone in a thin, dark, glossy gravy with a heavy skim of red oil, built on the poppy-seed and dry-coconut masala. The heat is peppery and cumulative rather than sharp, and it keeps building for several minutes after the plate is finished. Served with plain roti or bhakar and raw onion, and traditionally without a spoon anywhere near it.

Where to try: The savji khanavalis of Itwari, Mahal and Gandhibagh in Nagpur, at lunch.

Varhadi mutton rassaNon-vegetarianMain

The household style of the cotton plain — the same goat in a darker, drier masala of roasted coconut, sesame and a great deal of red chilli, with the gravy tighter than a saoji and the heat more frontal. Eaten with bhakar.

Varhadi kombdiकोंबडी रस्साNon-vegetarianMain

Country chicken in the Varhadi masala, cooked long enough for a bird that has walked. Weddings and harvest meals in the cotton districts are built around it, cooked outdoors in a large pot.

Tarri pohaVegetarianBreakfast

Nagpur's breakfast and its most distinctive single dish. Flattened rice steamed plain, then flooded at the counter with tarri — the spiced red oil skimmed off a pot of chana usal — with raw onion, coriander, lemon and a fistful of shev on top. Eaten standing, off a leaf plate, from about seven in the morning.

Where to try: The pavement counters around Sitabuldi, Mahal and Dharampeth in Nagpur.

Patodi rassaVegetarianMain

Set gram-flour diamonds simmered in a thin fiery gravy of onion, garlic, dry coconut and chilli. The vegetarian centrepiece of a Varhadi wedding meal, and the dish by which a Vidarbha cook is judged.

Zunka bhakarVegetarianMain

Gram flour cooked dry with onion, garlic and green chilli until it crumbles, eaten with jowar bhakar. The standing meal of the working day across the plain, and the cheapest complete protein a field kitchen can make.

Wada bhaatVegetarianMain

Urad-dal vadas served over plain rice with a thin dal poured across, an oil tempering and a lemon. A Varhadi festive and funeral dish both, and one of the few in the region where rice is the point in the western districts.

BharitVegetarianMain

Brinjal buried in embers until the skin blisters and the flesh collapses, peeled, mashed with onion, garlic, groundnut and green chilli. The Vidarbha version is hotter and less oily than Khandesh's, and it is made only with the large field brinjal grown for it.

Chana usal with tarriVegetarianMain

Whole black chana in a dark gravy, cooked in a large pot so the spiced oil separates on top. It is the parent dish of tarri poha and is eaten in its own right with pav.

Bamboo shoot curryवासोडाVegetarianMain

Fermented or dried bamboo shoot cooked with tamarind, a light masala and sometimes dried fish. Sour, faintly sulphurous and completely unlike anything cooked forty kilometres west. Available fresh only in the first weeks of the monsoon.

Chapda chutneyNon-vegetarianCondiment

Red weaver ants and their eggs pounded with salt, garlic and chilli, eaten with rice by Madia and Gond households in the eastern forests. The sourness is formic acid from the ants themselves. Gathered from nests built in tree canopies, and seasonal.

Chinnor bhaatVegetarianMain

Plain steamed rice of the short-grain aromatic Chinnor landrace grown in the Bhandara and Gondia tank country, eaten with a thin dal and ghee. The aroma is the entire dish, which is why nobody puts a masala near it.

Santra barfiVegetarianSweet

Milk solids cooked down with Nagpur mandarin juice and zest into a soft orange fudge. A twentieth-century sweet built on a nineteenth-century crop, and the thing every visitor to Nagpur is sent home with.

Where to try: The sweet shops of Sitabuldi and Itwari in Nagpur.

Thecha with Bhiwapur chilliVegetarianCondiment

Chilli, garlic and salt pounded on stone. Made here with the Bhiwapur chilli of southern Nagpur district, which holds a geographical indication and is valued for colour and pungency rather than for size.

MahuaVegetarianIngredient and drink

Dried mahua flowers eaten as they are, cooked into a coarse bread, boiled into a sweet gruel, or distilled. In the forest districts the March flowering is a working season with its own calendar and its own household economy.

Staples

Jowar bhakarRice, through the eastern districtsTur dal varanThecha and raw onionShengdana chutneyAmbadi and other monsoon greens

Sweets

Santra barfiPuran poliAnarsa at DiwaliKhava barfiSheeraMahua ladu in the forest districts

Street food

Tarri pohaPatodi and kanda bhajiSamosa with a tarri poured over itSantra barfi and orange candyBhajji and jalebi at the tank-town marketsSabudana khichdi on fasting days

Drinks

Fresh santra juice, in season from NovemberTaak, salted and cumin-temperedMahua distillate, in the forest districtsVery sweet black tea, taken with tarri poha

Dress and textiles

Three wardrobes with almost nothing in common share this region. The Marathi cotton plain dresses in the nine-yard and the dhotar. The Gond and Madia households of the eastern forest dress in coarse white or undyed cotton with heavy aluminium and brass ornament and, in the older generation, godna tattooing that was put on rather than put away. And since 1956 there is a fourth thing — plain white worn at Buddhist ceremonies and at Deekshabhoomi, chosen precisely because it carries no caste marking at all.

What is worn

Nauvari sari, Varhadi drapeWomen

Nine yards worn with the pleats drawn back and tucked, the pallu taken over the right shoulder and often over the head. The drape differs from the Desh version in how the pallu is fixed, which older women can spot at a distance.

Worn for: Everyday among older women, ceremonial among younger

Dhotar, sadra and phetaMen, rural

A dhoti with a collarless shirt and a tied pheta or Gandhi topi. Wardha and its surroundings wear khadi versions of all three, which is not a costume choice but the residue of a village-industry programme that has been running here since the 1930s.

Worn for: Everyday and ceremonial

Gond and Madia dressGond and Madia communities of the eastern forests

A short coarse cotton sari worn without a blouse in the older style, with heavy aluminium or brass neck rings, arm rings and hair combs. Men wear a short dhoti and a cloth over the shoulder. Ornament is worn in quantity and is a household's stored value.

Worn for: Everyday

GodnaGond and other forest communities, women in particular

Tattoo work in geometric bands on the forearms, shins, throat and forehead, applied with a needle and soot at named stages of life. It is dress in the sense that it is worn permanently, and it is now largely confined to the oldest generation.

Worn for: Marked at fixed points in a life

Buddhist whiteBuddhist households

Plain white sari or kurta, worn with a Panchsheel flag or badge. Adopted after 1956 as a deliberately unmarked dress, and now the standard ceremonial wear of a very large population across the region.

Worn for: Dhamma Chakra Pravartan Din, weddings, funerals, vihara ceremonies

Banjara kanchali and ghaghraGor Banjara women

Mirror, cowrie and coin-worked blouse and skirt with stacked upper-arm bangles. Pohradevi in Washim is the largest Banjara pilgrimage centre in the country, so this dress is at its most visible here in February.

Worn for: Everyday among older women, festive among younger

Weaves and textiles

Karvath KathiNagpur and Bhandara, principally Umred and Pauni

A cotton sari whose name means saw-tooth, for the triangular border formed by interlocking the border and body wefts on the loom rather than by any added thread. Historically woven for wear in the Vidarbha heat — heavier in the border and very open in the body. Down to a small number of working looms.

Wardha khadiWardha

Hand-spun, hand-woven cotton produced by institutions set up at Wardha and Sevagram from the 1930s. The cloth is ordinary; the production chain — carding, spinning and weaving all kept in the village — was the entire argument.

Coarse forest cottonGadchiroli, Chandrapur

Undyed or indigo-dyed thick cotton woven on frame looms for the forest villages, in short widths and with minimal patterning. Largely displaced by mill cloth.

Jewellery

Thushi and putali haar at the neckBugadi and kudi at the earAluminium and brass neck rings, arm rings and hair combs among Gond and Madia womenSilver jodvi and painjan at the footBhuriya, the stacked Banjara upper-arm banglesPanchsheel and Ashoka Chakra pendants, worn since 1956

Arts and artisanal heritage

Dance

DandarTribal

A men's dance in a moving line or circle to drum and flute, performed over several nights during the Diwali period, with troupes moving between villages. It carries narrative and comic sections as well as pure dance, which is why it sits on the boundary between dance and theatre.

Performed by: Gond men. Occasion: Diwali and the post-harvest weeks

RelaTribal

A call-and-response song and circle dance with linked arms, driven by the dhol and the tudumi drum. The word names the song form as much as the dance.

Performed by: Gond communities. Occasion: Weddings and seasonal festivals

GediTribal

A dance performed on bamboo stilts. It begins as a practical way to cross flooded ground and becomes a competitive display, which is a fairly common route for a folk form.

Performed by: Young men in the forest districts. Occasion: The monsoon and the weeks after

DhemsaTribal

A linked-arm line dance moving in a slow sideways step, shared with the Bastar and Koraput country to the east rather than with anything in Marathi Maharashtra.

Performed by: Women, in the Gadchiroli forests. Occasion: Festivals and weddings

Lezim and Dhangari GajaFolk

The percussive lezim-frame drill of the western districts and the shepherds' spiral dance around a dhol. Both belong to Marathi country broadly; the Payanghat versions are indistinguishable from Marathwada's.

Performed by: Village troupes and Dhangar shepherd communities. Occasion: Pola, Ganeshotsav, village fairs

LengiTribal

A clapping circle dance in full mirrored dress, sung in Gor Boli.

Performed by: Gor Banjara women. Occasion: Teej, Holi and the Pohradevi gathering

Music

Bhim Geet and Ambedkari jalsa

The largest modern folk-song repertoire in Maharashtra, addressed to Ambedkar, the Buddha and the 1956 conversion, performed by shahirs and jalsa troupes with dholki and harmonium and circulated on cassette and now on phones. Nagpur is its centre of production as well as its pilgrimage site, and the corpus is still being added to.

Varhadi lokgeet

Women's song in Varhadi — grindstone couplets, wedding sequences, and the songs sung while transplanting rice in the eastern districts, where the metre follows the bending rhythm of the work.

Gondi ritual song

Clan songs addressed to the Persa Pen, the clan deity, sung by named ritual specialists rather than by anyone. The repertoire encodes clan genealogy and is not performed outside its occasion.

Hindustani classical in Nagpur

Nagpur has sustained a serious Hindustani audience since the Central Provinces period, and produced Vasantrao Deshpande, whose voice defined the Marathi sangeet-natak revival of the 1960s and 1970s.

Theatre

Zadipatti Rangbhoomi

The night theatre of Bhandara, Gondia, Chandrapur and Gadchiroli. Once the paddy is in, ticketed plays run on village stages from about ten at night until dawn, through the winter and into summer, with hundreds of shows a season, professional troupes, salaried stars and a repertoire in Zadi Boli. It is a full commercial theatre economy that almost nobody outside eastern Vidarbha has heard of.

Khadi Gammat

A rough-and-ready village comic form performed standing, with topical satire, song and cross-dressed roles. Older than the Zadipatti proscenium circuit and largely displaced by it.

Dandar as theatre

The Gond Diwali dance carries spoken and comic interludes and travelling troupes, and in practice functions as village theatre for the weeks it runs.

Crafts

Karvath Kathi weaving GI-worthy Nagpur and Bhandara (Umred, Pauni)

A handful of working looms remain at Umred and Pauni. The technique is close to the kadiyal interlocking used in the Paithani, applied to cotton rather than silk and to a very different kind of garment.

Material: Cotton, occasionally with a silk border. Technique: The saw-tooth border is produced on the loom by interlocking the border weft with the body weft along a zigzag line, so the two colours meet in a series of triangles with no float and no join. The body is woven very open for the heat.

Bhandara brass GI-worthy Bhandara

Bhandara's name for itself is the brass town, and the trade goes back to supplying an agrarian economy that stored water and cooked in metal. It has contracted sharply with stainless steel and aluminium.

Material: Brass and bell metal. Technique: Sheet-beaten and sand-cast vessels, finished by hand on a lathe and polished with tamarind and ash.

Waigaon turmeric curing GI registered Wardha (Waigaon)

Registered as a geographical indication in June 2016. The Waigaon variety is valued for a high curcumin content, which is a chemical claim rather than a marketing one and is the basis of the registration.

Material: Turmeric rhizome. Technique: Rhizomes are boiled, sun-dried for days on open ground and then polished by tumbling, which is what converts a perishable root into a storable spice and fixes its colour.

Bhiwapur chilli drying GI registered Nagpur (Bhiwapur)

Registered as a geographical indication in March 2017 — the first chilli from Maharashtra to hold one. Grown in the southern talukas of Nagpur district and sold on pungency and colour rather than size.

Material: Dry red chilli. Technique: Field-ripened, sun-dried on the ground and graded by hand for colour and stalk condition.

Wardha khadi and village industry Wardha

Institutionalised at Wardha and Sevagram from the mid-1930s, with the Magan Sangrahalaya set up in 1938 as a working museum of village industry rather than a display of one. The institutions are still operating.

Material: Cotton, and the associated oil, soap and paper trades. Technique: Hand carding, charkha spinning and pit-loom weaving, kept as a village-scale production chain.

Gadchiroli bamboo work Gadchiroli, Chandrapur

Bamboo here is a cash crop under community control as much as a craft material — Mendha-Lekha became the first village in India to win the right to harvest and sell its own bamboo, in 2009.

Material: Bamboo, principally Dendrocalamus strictus. Technique: Split, shaved and woven into baskets, mats, grain bins and fish traps, without adhesive or fastening.

Godna tattooing Gadchiroli, Chandrapur, Gondia

A permanent, non-transferable form of ornament in communities that historically owned little else. Almost gone among women under fifty, and now studied mostly from photographs of the oldest generation.

Material: Soot or lampblack and a needle. Technique: Hand-pricked geometric bands, applied at fixed points in a woman's life.

Folk songs

Bhim GeetMarathi

Ambedkar, the Buddha, the conversion, and the ordinary life of the communities that made it. A modern folk repertoire with a datable origin and tens of thousands of songs, sustained by shahirs and jalsa troupes rather than by any institution.

Sung at: Dhamma Chakra Pravartan Din, Ambedkar Jayanti, weddings and vihara gatherings. Wamandada Kardak is the shahir most closely associated with the form; his songs are still sung by people who do not know he wrote them, which is the usual test.

Jatyavarchi oviMarathi (Varhadi)

Improvised couplets on brothers, in-laws, the village and the work, in a metre set by the turning of the stone.

Sung at: At the grindstone, before dawn.

RelaGondi

Call-and-response songs sung while dancing in a linked circle, with the leader setting a line and the circle answering it.

Sung at: Weddings and seasonal festivals.

Dandar songsGondi and Marathi

Narrative and comic songs performed by travelling male troupes over several nights, moving from village to village.

Sung at: The Diwali fortnight.

Zadipatti stage songsZadi Boli

Songs written into the all-night plays, released and circulated separately, and often better known than the plays they came from.

Sung at: The winter theatre season.

Rice transplanting songsMarathi (Zadi) and Halbi

Sung by women working bent over in flooded fields, with a metre timed to the planting stroke. The work is the metronome.

Sung at: The monsoon, in the eastern tank districts.

LengiGor Boli (Lambani)

Sowing, marriage and the road, in the vocabulary of a caravan economy that ended long ago.

Sung at: Teej, Holi and the Pohradevi gathering.

PalnaMarathi (Varhadi)

Cradle songs sung to a child by the name being conferred on it.

Sung at: The naming ceremony.

Dialect and oral traditions

Vidarbha's Marathi is the variety that standard Marathi teaching most enjoys correcting, which is a reliable sign that it is doing something systematic. Varhadi replaces the standard dative forms mala and tula with male and tule, uses kahun where the standard uses ka for why, and builds its present continuous with a participle plus the verb to remain — karun rahylo, literally having done I remain, for I am doing. That last construction is the single most recognisable Vidarbha marker in the language, and it is a stable grammatical feature rather than an error. East of the Wainganga, Zadi Boli sits on top of centuries of contact with Halbi, Chhattisgarhi and Gondi and has its own literature and its own theatre. Nagpur, having been a Central Provinces capital, speaks more Hindi in public than any other Marathi city.

Speech varieties

VarhadiIndo-Aryan, Southern

The speech of Buldhana, Akola, Washim, Amravati and Yavatmal, and loosely of the whole cotton plain. Marked by male and tule, kahun, bhakar for bhakri, and the participle-plus-remain progressive.

Speakers: Returned as Marathi in the census, so no separate count exists

Zadi BoliIndo-Aryan, Southern

Bhandara, Gondia, Chandrapur and Gadchiroli — the forest and tank country. Heavily influenced by Halbi and Chhattisgarhi, with its own writers' association and the Zadipatti theatre repertoire written in it. Speakers generally treat it as Marathi and outsiders generally cannot follow it.

Nagpuri registerIndo-Aryan, Southern

Urban Marathi with a much heavier Hindi load than any other Marathi city carries, a legacy of Nagpur's century as the capital of a Hindi-majority province. Code-switching between the two mid-sentence is unremarkable here.

Gondi and MadiaDravidian, South-Central

A Dravidian language spoken in a Marathi state, and in Gadchiroli the first language of whole blocks. Madia is its local variety. Gondi has no single accepted script and the standardisation question is live.

Speakers: Around a million and a half returned across central India, with a large share in this region

HalbiIndo-Aryan, with heavy Dravidian contact

A contact language of the Marathi–Chhattisgarhi–Gondi meeting ground, spoken in the far east and continuing into Bastar. It works as a trade tongue between speakers of unrelated languages.

KolamiDravidian

Spoken by Kolam communities in Yavatmal and across into the Telangana border districts, and unrelated to the Marathi around it. Small and under pressure.

Indigenous terminology

TermMeaning
Male, tule मले, तुलेTo me, to you — where standard Marathi has mala and tula. The most immediately audible Varhadi feature and the one most often imitated for comic effect.
Kahun काहूनWhy. Standard Marathi uses ka. A Varhadi speaker asking a question announces the region in one word.
Karun rahylo करून राह्यलोI am doing — a present continuous built from a participle plus the verb to remain, where standard Marathi uses karat aahe. Grammatically systematic, and treated by prescriptivists as an error for a century.
Tarri तर्रीThe spiced oil skimmed off the top of a pot of usal or rassa and served separately. In Nagpur it is a noun, a measure of how hot you want something, and a breakfast.
Khanaval खानावळAn eating house serving one fixed menu at fixed hours, usually run out of a family home. The savji khanavali is the institution through which saoji cooking left the community that invented it.
Malguzar मालगुजारThe revenue landholder of the Central Provinces, responsible for the village's land tax and for its tank. The tenure was abolished after Independence; the tanks it built are still there and are still called malguzari.
Zadipatti झाडीपट्टीThe forest belt of the four eastern districts, from zad, tree. Also the name of its theatre circuit and its dialect.
Bahar बहारA flowering flush in a citrus orchard, and the practice of forcing one by withholding irrigation until the tree drops its leaves. Ambia bahar and mrig bahar are the two the Nagpur orange is worked on.
Tendupatta तेंदूपत्ताThe leaf of Diospyros melanoxylon, collected in bundles in April and May for rolling beedis. In the forest districts it is the largest single cash event of the year for a household with no land.
Persa Pen पेरसा पेनThe Gond clan deity, held by a clan rather than a village and cared for by named ritual specialists. Clan membership and marriage rules are organised around it.
Ghotul घोटूलThe youth dormitory of some Madia and Muria communities, in which unmarried young people of a village lived, worked and learned collectively. Much written about by outsiders, considerably reduced in practice.
Deeksha दीक्षाOrdination or initiation. Here it refers specifically to the taking of the Buddhist refuges and precepts, and Deekshabhoomi is the ground on which it happened.

Sayings

SayingLiterallyMeaning
दुरून डोंगर साजरेHills look handsome from a distanceThings improve with distance from them.
उथळ पाण्याला खळखळाट फारShallow water makes a great deal of noiseThe least informed speak loudest.
बुडत्याचा पाय खोलातThe drowning man's foot goes deeperTrouble compounds itself. Heard often in the cotton districts, where a bad season is paid for out of the capacity to plant the next one.
उचलली जीभ लावली टाळ्यालाLifted the tongue and slapped it to the palateSpeaking without thinking, said of someone who has just done it.
गाढवाला गुळाची चव कायWhat does a donkey know of the taste of jaggeryRefinement offered to someone with no use for it.

Places

DeekshabhoomiPilgrimageNagpur

The ground where B. R. Ambedkar and a very large gathering, generally put at around four lakh people, took Buddhist ordination on 14 October 1956, Ashoka Vijaya Dashami, seven weeks before his death. The hemispherical stupa over the site, begun in 1978 and inaugurated in 2001, is modelled on Sanchi and is among the largest hollow stupas anywhere. It draws pilgrims year-round and several lakh on the anniversary.

Best time: Mid-October for the observance; any time otherwise.

Zero Mile StoneHeritageNagpur

A sandstone pillar with four stone horses, set as a reference point of the Great Trigonometrical Survey and long described as the centre of India. It is a survey convention rather than a computed geographic centroid, but the two great trunk highways do genuinely cross within a few kilometres of it, which is why Nagpur is where it is.

Sitabuldi FortHeritageNagpur

The hill fort in the middle of Nagpur, held by the army and opened to the public only on a few fixed days in the year. It was the site of the 1817 battle between the Bhonsles and the East India Company that ended Maratha control of the Nagpur kingdom.

Best time: Check the open days before travelling.

RamtekPilgrimageNagpur

A hill temple complex above the plain, traditionally identified with the Ramagiri of Kalidasa's Meghaduta — the hill from which the exiled yaksha sends his cloud north. The identification is old and not provable; the view that makes the poem work is available regardless.

NagardhanHeritageNagpur

Ancient Nandivardhana, a Vakataka capital, a few kilometres from Ramtek — excavated in recent decades and producing seals and structures from the dynasty whose Washim branch patronised the fifth-century phase at Ajanta.

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger ReserveWildlifeChandrapur

Maharashtra's oldest national park, notified in 1955 and made a tiger reserve with the addition of the Andhari sanctuary. Dry deciduous teak forest with a large lake and high tiger density, and among the most reliably productive reserves in India for sightings.

Best time: March–May for sightings; closed in the monsoon.

Pench Tiger ReserveWildlifeNagpur

Teak forest either side of the Pench river, continuous across the state boundary with the Madhya Pradesh side of the same reserve. These are the Seoni forests that Kipling used for the Jungle Book without ever having seen them.

Best time: February–May.

Melghat Tiger ReserveWildlifeAmravati

Steep Satpura forest on the Gawilgarh hills, among the first nine reserves notified under Project Tiger in 1973. Low tourist pressure and difficult terrain, with a resident Korku population inside and around it.

Best time: November–February.

ChikhaldaraHillAmravati

The only hill station in Vidarbha, at roughly 1,100 m in the Melghat, cool enough to have carried coffee plantations. Local tradition ties the name to Kichaka of the Mahabharata, whom Bhima is said to have killed and thrown into the ravine here.

Best time: October–February, and the monsoon for the views.

Gawilgarh FortHeritageAmravati

A large hill fort above Chikhaldara with Bahmani and Imad Shahi construction, stormed by Arthur Wellesley in 1803 during the Second Anglo-Maratha War. Largely unrestored and largely empty.

Lonar CraterNatureBuldhana

A hypervelocity meteorite impact crater about 1.8 km across at the rim, blasted into Deccan basalt and dated by argon-argon methods to around 576,000 years. It is one of very few impact craters anywhere formed in basalt, which is why planetary scientists use it as an analogue for Mars and the Moon. The lake at the bottom is both saline and alkaline, and stratified — a near-neutral outer body over an inner one at around pH 11, each with its own microbial community. Declared a Ramsar site in November 2020. Note that Lonar is in Buldhana district, which is Vidarbha — it is frequently and wrongly placed in Marathwada, whose boundary is about fifty kilometres away.

Best time: October–February, early morning for the descent.

Markanda templesHeritageGadchiroli

A group of Nagara-style stone temples on the bank of the Wainganga, densely carved and heavily damaged, under long-running conservation. Locally called the Khajuraho of Vidarbha, which oversells the comparison and undersells how strange it is to find this much carved stone in the middle of teak forest.

Anchaleshwar temple and the Gond samadhisHeritageChandrapur

A Shiva temple by the Jharpat river with the memorial samadhis of the Gond kings of Chandrapur beside it. The city's fortification wall, several kilometres of it with four main gates, was built under the same dynasty and still frames the old town.

Sevagram AshramHeritageWardha

Gandhi's base from 1936 until the mid-1940s, and therefore the address from which much of the last decade of the national movement was run. The huts are mud, bamboo and thatch, kept as they were, and the ashram is still inhabited rather than curated.

PaunarHeritageWardha

Vinoba Bhave's Brahma Vidya Mandir on the Dham river, from which he ran the Bhoodan land-donation movement from 1951. The riverbank also carries an early sculpted stone panel of Vakataka date, which is not what most visitors come for.

Navegaon and NagziraWildlifeGondia and Bhandara

Two adjoining reserves around old man-made lakes, forming a tiger reserve and one of the best bird sites in central India. The Navegaon lake is itself a piece of pre-colonial engineering, not a natural water body.

Best time: November–March.

The malguzari tanksNatureBhandara, Gondia, Chandrapur

Several thousand earthen tanks across the eastern districts, built and maintained under a land tenure that was abolished in the 1950s, after which many silted up. They irrigate the rice, hold the fisheries and set the shape of every village in the belt. Restoration programmes have been running on them since the 2000s.

Mendha-LekhaNatureGadchiroli

A Gond village that in 2009 became the first in India to secure community forest rights over its own forest under the Forest Rights Act, and then the right to harvest and sell its own bamboo. Its gram sabha decisions are taken by consensus rather than vote.

ShegaonPilgrimageBuldhana

The samadhi temple of Gajanan Maharaj, among the largest pilgrimage destinations in Maharashtra by footfall, run with a level of organisation that has become a subject of study in itself. The Anand Sagar complex on the town's edge was built by the same trust.

PohradeviPilgrimageWashim

The principal pilgrimage centre of the Banjara community, centred on the samadhi of Sant Sevalal, drawing tandas from Maharashtra, Telangana, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. Often called the Banjara Kashi.

Warud and Morshi orange beltNatureAmravati

The densest mandarin orchards in the region, worked on the two-bahar cycle. Groundwater draw here has been heavy enough for long enough that the water table, not the market, is the limiting factor on planting.

Best time: November–January, when the ambia crop is coming in.

Ambadevi temple, AmravatiPilgrimageAmravati

The old goddess temple around which Amravati grew, and the reason the town has the name it has. The Navratri fair here fills the old city.

Festivals

FestivalWhenWhat happens
Dhamma Chakra Pravartan DinAshoka Vijaya Dashami, OctoberThe anniversary of the 1956 conversion, observed at Deekshabhoomi with several lakh people arriving over three days, ordinations conducted on the ground, and an enormous book fair alongside. It is the largest single gathering in Vidarbha and one of the largest Buddhist gatherings anywhere.
Marbat and BadgyaThe day after Pola, Bhadrapada (August–September)Nagpur's own festival and unlike anything else in Maharashtra. Giant effigies — the black Kali Marbat and the yellow Pivli Marbat, with the badgya figures alongside — are carried in procession through the old city to shouts calling the year's disease and misfortune to leave with them, and are then burned. The Kali Marbat procession is said to have been running since the 1880s.
Pola and Tanha PolaBhadrapada Amavasya (August–September)Bullocks washed, painted and paraded and not worked for the day; Tanha Pola the following day is for children, who parade wooden bullocks. In a region whose economy still turns on draught animals this is the most seriously kept agricultural festival of the year.
Gajanan Maharaj Prakat Din at ShegaonMagh (January–February)The anniversary of the saint's first appearance at Shegaon, drawing very large numbers to Buldhana district and running with the trust's characteristic organisation of queues, food and lodging.
The Zadipatti seasonAfter the paddy harvest, roughly Diwali to MayNot a festival but a season, and the eastern districts organise their winter around it. Ticketed all-night plays on village stages, professional troupes touring a fixed circuit, and a repertoire in Zadi Boli.
Sevalal Jayanti at PohradeviFebruaryThe Banjara gathering at Pohradevi in Washim, with tandas arriving from four states, Lengi performance and a fair that takes over the village for several days.
Diwali and the Dandar nightsKartik (October–November)In the Gond villages of the east the Diwali fortnight is when the Dandar troupes move between settlements, dancing and performing over several consecutive nights.
Mahashivratri at MarkandaPhalgun (February–March)A river-bank fair at the Markanda temples on the Wainganga, drawing from Gadchiroli and across into Chhattisgarh.
Navratri at AmbadeviAshwin (September–October)Nine nights at Amravati's goddess temple, with the fair filling the lanes of the old town.
Kalidas observance at RamtekAshadh (June–July)A literary and music festival held at Ramtek on the Meghaduta association, marking the month in which the poem opens. It has run intermittently rather than every year.

People

NameYearsFieldKnown for
HarishenaReigned c. 475–500 CERulerThe Vakataka king of the Vatsagulma branch, ruling from what is now Washim, under whose court the second and greatest phase of excavation at the Ajanta caves was carried out. The dynasty was based in Vidarbha; the caves it paid for are in Marathwada.
Raghuji Bhonsle Ic. 1695–1755RulerBuilt the Nagpur Bhonsle state into the dominant power of the eastern Deccan, extending its raiding and revenue reach as far as Bengal and Odisha. Nagpur as a capital city dates from his line.
Sant Gadge Baba1876–1956Reformer and kirtankarBorn at Shengaon in Amravati district. Travelled village to village with a broom and a broken pot, cleaning the village before performing kirtan in it, and using the kirtan to argue against caste practice, animal sacrifice and drink. He built dharamshalas and schools and kept nothing.
Rashtrasant Tukdoji Maharaj1909–1968Poet and reformerFrom Yavali in Amravati district; wrote the Gramgeeta, a long verse programme for village self-reliance, and used bhajan as an organising method. Nagpur's university carries his name.
Mahatma Gandhi1869–1948PoliticsMoved his base to Sevagram near Wardha in 1936 and ran the last decade of the national movement from a mud hut in a Vidarbha village, deliberately choosing a place with no railway station of its own.
Jamnalal Bajaj1889–1942Industry and public lifeThe Wardha merchant and industrialist who financed and hosted Gandhi's move, and who founded the village industry institutions that still operate at Wardha. He opened his family's Laxminarayan temple to Dalits in 1928, well before any law required it.
Vinoba Bhave1895–1982Social movementSettled at Paunar near Wardha, from where he walked across India from 1951 asking landholders to donate land for redistribution — the Bhoodan movement, which collected several million acres by voluntary transfer.
B. R. Ambedkar1891–1956Law, politics and religionChose Nagpur for the mass conversion of 14 October 1956, at which he and several lakh followers took the Buddhist refuges and precepts along with twenty-two additional vows he composed. He explained the choice of Nagpur by reference to the Nagas of the region. He died on 6 December of the same year.
Suresh Bhat1932–2003PoetFrom Amravati; established the ghazal as a Marathi form rather than an imported one, working out how a metre built for Urdu could be made to sit on Marathi stress. His verse is sung as widely as it is read.
Vasantrao Deshpande1920–1983Hindustani vocalist and actorBorn at Murtizapur in Akola district; combined several gharana trainings into a voice of his own and made Katyar Kaljat Ghusali the defining Marathi musical drama of the twentieth century.
Wamandada KardakShahirThe shahir most closely identified with Bhim Geet, who wrote and performed several thousand songs on Ambedkar, the conversion and the lives of the communities that made it, and left the copyright question entirely alone.
Dadaji Ramaji KhobragadeDied 2018Farmer and plant breederA smallholder in Nagbhid taluka, Chandrapur district, who noticed an unusual plant in his paddy field in the 1980s and selected from it over several seasons to fix the HMT rice variety, which then spread across central India. He never held rights over it and died poor, which is the part of the story that gets told.
Rani Hirai16th centuryRulerThe Gond queen of Chandrapur credited with completing the city's fortification wall after her husband's death. The Gond dynasty of Chandrapur is the region's longest-ruling and least documented.

Freedom fighters

Vidarbha had three separate political worlds and they produced three different kinds of resistance. Berar's was old, constitutional and lawyerly, run out of Amravati and Yavatmal by men who had come up through the Home Rule agitation and the provincial legislatures. Wardha's was of national consequence out of all proportion to its size, because from 1936 Gandhi lived at Sevagram and the Congress leadership met there; the Quit India resolution was drafted at Wardha in July 1942. The eastern forests' resistance was to forest and revenue regulation and produced the region's largest local rising of the movement, at Chimur and Ashti in August 1942. One further point about this region has to be stated plainly: the Gondi-speaking east has a far longer history of resistance to outside administration than the documentary record preserves, and the individual names in it are mostly lost.

Risings and revolts

The Nagpur flag satyagraha1923

Volunteers defied a prohibition on carrying the national flag in procession through the civil lines at Nagpur, courting arrest in batches over several months; volunteers came in from other provinces to join. Jamnalal Bajaj was among those detained.

Outcome: The dispute was settled by negotiation, the procession was allowed to pass, and those arrested were released.

The forest satyagraha in Berar1930

As part of the civil disobedience movement, cultivators and volunteers in the Central Provinces and Berar broke forest regulations by cutting grass and timber in reserved forest. Madhav Shrihari Aney was arrested at Pusad in Yavatmal district on 10 July 1930.

Outcome: Aney was convicted and imprisoned for six months; the episode gave him the name Loknayak, and forest grievance stayed a live issue in the region long afterwards.

The Chimur and Ashti risingsAugust 1942

Following the Quit India arrests, crowds at Chimur in the Chandrapur country and at Ashti in Wardha district took over police stations and government offices and held the towns for some days before order was restored. Officials were killed in both places.

Outcome: A mass trial followed, in which a large number of people from both towns were convicted and death sentences were passed; the sentences were later commuted. The detailed record of the trial is held in provincial archives and is not consistently reported in general reference works.

People

NameYearsMovementKnown for
Madhav Shrihari AneyWani, Yavatmal district 1880–1968 Home Rule League; Congress Joined the Home Rule League in 1918 and was president of the Vidarbha provincial Congress committee from 1921. Prosecuted for his writing in 1910 and disbarred twice. Arrested during the forest satyagraha at Pusad on 10 July 1930 and imprisoned for six months, after which he was known as Loknayak.President of the Indian National Congress in 1933; later held office and served abroad.
Ganesh Srikrishna KhapardeAmravati, in Berar 1854–1938 Congress; Home Rule League A lawyer of Berar and one of Tilak's closest associates, active in the Congress divisions of the 1900s and in the Home Rule agitation, and a member of the central legislature. His diaries are a first-hand source for the politics of the period.
Jamnalal BajajWardha 1889–1942 Congress Made Wardha the base of the national movement by persuading Gandhi to move there and giving the land on which Sevagram was built. Detained during the 1923 flag satyagraha at Nagpur, treasurer of the Congress from 1933, and a member of its working committee. He opened his family temple at Wardha to all castes in 1928.Died in 1942.
Mohandas Karamchand GandhiSevagram, Wardha district, from April 1936 1869–1948 Congress Lived at Sevagram from April 1936, which made a village in the Wardha valley the working centre of the national movement for a decade. The Congress Working Committee met at Wardha on 14 July 1942 and adopted the resolution that became the Quit India demand.
Vinoba BhaveBorn at Gagode Budruk in Kolaba; based at Wardha and Paunar from 1921 1895–1982 Congress; individual satyagraha Sent by Gandhi to run the Wardha ashram in 1921, and chosen in 1940 as the first individual satyagrahi, the single person selected to offer public resistance when mass civil disobedience had been ruled out. He was arrested repeatedly through the 1920s and 1930s and served a long sentence during the war.
Rashtrasant Tukdoji MaharajYavali, Amravati district 1909–1968 Quit India A singer and preacher who took the movement into village bhajan gatherings across Vidarbha, composing in Marathi and Hindi. He offered satyagraha in 1941.Arrested in 1942 and imprisoned in the Nagpur and Raipur central jails.

Shops and premises

The savji khanavalisNagpur (Itwari, Mahal, Gandhibagh)

Saoji mutton and chicken rassa, at a fixed lunch hour

A cluster of family-run eating houses rather than restaurants, most carrying a family name followed by Savji. They open around midday and close when the pot is finished. Ask for the heat to be reduced only if you mean it.

The tarri poha countersNagpur (Sitabuldi, Mahal, Dharampeth)

Poha flooded with tarri, from about seven in the morning

Sold from handcarts and pavement counters; the good ones have a queue and no signboard.

Haldiram'sNagpursince 1970

Santra barfi and Nagpur's sweet and namkeen trade

The firm began at Bikaner in Rajasthan in 1937; the Nagpur arm was set up by a later generation of the family and became the city's default gift shop. The orange barfi is the local item on an otherwise Rajasthani list.

The orange marketsWarud, Morshi, Katol, and Kalamna in Nagpur

Nagpur mandarin, by the crate

Two seasons — the ambia crop from about November and the mrig crop in late winter and spring. The fruit is graded by skin condition rather than sweetness, which is why the best-tasting ones are often the ugliest.

The Karvath Kathi loomsUmred and Pauni

Handloom cotton saris with an interlocked saw-tooth border

Very few working looms remain. The test for handloom is the border — an interlocked saw-tooth has no float and reads identically on both faces.

Bhandara's brass marketBhandara

Brass and bell-metal cooking and storage vessels

A working trade rather than a craft showroom, and it sells to households, not to visitors.

Magan SangrahalayaWardhasince 1938

Khadi, village-industry products and the tools that make them

Set up as a working museum of village industry rather than a display case, and still attached to a functioning production and research operation.

How to reach

By air

  • Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar International Airport, Nagpur (NAG) — Central India's principal airport and a major air-cargo hub, chosen for that role because of how close it is to the country's geographic centre. About 8 km from the city.
  • Gondia (Birsi) and Amravati (Belora) — Small airfields with limited and intermittent scheduled service; confirm before planning around either.

By rail

  • Nagpur Junction (NGP) — One of the busiest junctions in India, because the Mumbai–Howrah and Delhi–Chennai trunk routes cross here. Nearly everything running east–west or north–south through central India stops.
  • Ballarshah Junction (BPQ) — The southern gateway, and the changeover point for Telangana and the south. Chandrapur is the station for Tadoba.
  • Wardha Junction (WR) — For Sevagram and Paunar; Sevagram station itself is on the same node.
  • Badnera Junction (BD) — The junction for Amravati, Chikhaldara and the Melghat.
  • Akola Junction (AK) — For the western cotton plain, Shegaon and the Lonar approach.
  • Gondia Junction (G) — For the eastern tank country, Navegaon and Nagzira.

By road

The Delhi–Chennai north–south national highway through NagpurThe Kolkata–Surat east–west national highway through Nagpur and AmravatiSamruddhi Mahamarg — the Nagpur–Mumbai expressway, which begins hereNagpur–Bhandara–Raipur, the road into ChhattisgarhChandrapur–Gadchiroli–Aheri, the only real road into the southern forest districtsAkola–Buldhana–Lonar, for the crater

By water

No navigable river; the Wainganga and Wardha are crossed rather than travelledBoat access on the Navegaon and Gosikhurd waters

Getting around

Nagpur has a metro and is easy. Everything else is state transport buses and shared jeeps. Gadchiroli district is road-only, distances are long, and daylight travel is the sensible default. Tadoba, Pench and Navegaon all require gate permits booked in advance.

The small things

  • A supercontinent named after a districtThe coal-bearing rock sequence around Chandrapur and Ballarshah was described by nineteenth-century geologists as the Gondwana system, after Gondwana, the country of the Gonds. When Eduard Suess later proposed a southern supercontinent he named it after the same rocks. Every geology textbook on Earth carries a Vidarbha place-name, and almost nobody using it knows that.
  • An afternoon that changed a census categoryOn 14 October 1956 Ambedkar took the Buddhist refuges at Nagpur and then administered them, together with twenty-two additional vows of his own composition, to a gathering generally put at around four lakh people. He died seven weeks later. Maharashtra's Buddhist population, effectively nil before that afternoon, is now several million and is concentrated in Vidarbha and Marathwada.
  • Oranges flowered on commandThe Nagpur mandarin is worked on bahar treatment. Irrigation is deliberately withheld until the tree is stressed enough to drop its leaves, then restored, and the tree flushes into flower on cue. Withhold in one window and you get the ambia crop; withhold in another and you get the mrig. Two harvests a year out of one orchard, entirely by controlling when the water stops.
  • The war that built the railwayWhen the American Civil War cut Lancashire off from American cotton between 1861 and 1865, Berar's black-soil cotton became suddenly valuable, and a branch railway was pushed to the Khamgaon market to move it. The mills and the ginning towns of the cotton plain are laid out around that decade.
  • Two regions, two dates, one languageBerar was assigned to British administration by the Nizam in 1853 and attached to the Central Provinces in 1903. Marathwada stayed inside Hyderabad State until 1948. Two Marathi-speaking regions on either side of the Painganga spent ninety-five years under different governments, which is why one says patwari and the other says talathi, and why one's Marathi carries Hindi habits and the other's carries Urdu ones.
  • Theatre that runs from ten at night until dawnOnce the paddy is in, the Zadipatti circuit of Bhandara, Gondia, Chandrapur and Gadchiroli stages ticketed plays on village platforms through the night, with professional troupes, contracted stars and hundreds of shows a season, in Zadi Boli. It is a self-financing commercial theatre economy operating almost entirely outside the notice of Marathi theatre criticism.
  • A procession for taking disease out of the cityOn the day after Pola, Nagpur carries the Kali and Pivli Marbat effigies through the old city and burns them, calling the year's illness and misfortune to leave with them. The Kali Marbat procession is said to have been running since the 1880s. It is the only festival of its kind in Maharashtra.
  • Tanks built by a tenure that no longer existsSeveral thousand earthen tanks across the eastern districts were built and maintained by malguzars, the revenue landholders of the Central Provinces. The tenure was abolished in the 1950s and with it the obligation to desilt. The tanks stayed, the maintenance did not, and restoring them has been a state programme since the 2000s.
  • A rice variety that came out of one man's fieldDadaji Khobragade, a smallholder in Chandrapur district, spotted an off-type plant in his paddy in the 1980s and selected from it over several seasons until it bred true. The result, HMT, spread across central India. He held no rights over it and gained nothing from it, and the case is cited constantly in arguments about farmers' rights to their own selections.
  • A village that won its own bambooMendha-Lekha in Gadchiroli became the first village in India to obtain community forest rights under the Forest Rights Act in 2009, and then the right to harvest and sell bamboo from its own forest. Its gram sabha takes decisions by consensus, and it has been doing so since long before the law recognised the practice.
  • A crater used as a stand-in for MarsLonar is one of very few known hypervelocity impact craters formed in basalt, which makes its shocked and melted rock a close terrestrial analogue for the basaltic surfaces of Mars and the Moon. Planetary geologists come here to calibrate instruments. It sits in Buldhana district, in Vidarbha, and is regularly and wrongly assigned to Marathwada.
  • A legislature that moves here for one monthNagpur was the capital of the Central Provinces and Berar and lost that status in the reorganisations of 1956 and 1960. The Nagpur Pact of 1953 provided for a session of the state legislature to be held here, which is why Maharashtra's winter session sits in Nagpur and not in Mumbai.

Cross-border corridors

Traditions that continue past an administrative line. Written once at the corridor level and referenced from every region it crosses, never duplicated.

Gondwana Corridor

MaharashtraMadhya PradeshChhattisgarhTelanganaOdisha

Gondi and its varieties, the Persa Pen clan-deity system and the marriage rules organised around it, the ghotul where it survives, mahua and tendu as the household economy, and a chain of Gond fort-capitals from Chandrapur through Deogarh and Garha-Mandla to Bastar. The geological term Gondwana was taken from this same country.

How it diverges: In Gadchiroli, Gondi and Madia remain first languages; on the Vidarbha plains the Gond population has shifted to Marathi within living memory. On the Madhya Pradesh side the Pardhan Gond painting tradition became an internationally traded art from the 1980s, with nothing equivalent developing here. Bastar kept its Dussehra chariot institution; Chandrapur kept its fort wall and lost the court.

Ambedkarite Buddhist Corridor

MaharashtraMadhya PradeshUttar PradeshKarnatakaTelangana

The twenty-two vows, the village vihara built to a standard plan, Bhim Geet and the jalsa troupe, the Panchsheel flag, Buddha Purnima and Dhamma Chakra Pravartan Din, and an annual movement of pilgrims to Nagpur in October.

How it diverges: Nagpur is the pilgrimage focus and the centre of song production; Marathwada holds the second-largest concentration of followers; the Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh networks are later and organised around different local institutions. Census returns differ sharply between states, partly because the question of what is returned is itself contested.

Black Soil Cotton Corridor

MaharashtraMadhya PradeshTelanganaGujarat

Rainfed cotton on deep black regur, intercropped with tur, on a soil that stores monsoon moisture and releases it slowly. With it travel the ginning-and-pressing town, the cotton market yard and the railway branch line built to serve them.

How it diverges: Gujarat's cotton is largely irrigated and Vidarbha's largely is not, and that single difference accounts for most of the gap in yield and in yield stability between the two. Telangana's Adilabad shares Vidarbha's soil, its crop and its rainfall pattern, and reads as the same agricultural region interrupted by a border.

Mandarin Corridor

MaharashtraMadhya Pradesh

The Nagpur mandarin itself, the bahar forcing cycle, and the grading and packing trade around it. The geographical indication for Nagpur Orange is registered jointly across the two states, which is unusual and reflects that the growing belt genuinely straddles the boundary into Chhindwara and Betul.

How it diverges: The Madhya Pradesh orchards are younger and expanding; the older Vidarbha blocks face decline, root disease and replanting, and a falling water table in the Warud belt. Processing, grading and the market have stayed on the Nagpur side.

Zadipatti and Chhattisgarh Corridor

MaharashtraChhattisgarhMadhya Pradesh

Zadi Boli and its contact with Halbi and Chhattisgarhi, the tank-and-paddy landscape, the malguzari tenure that built it, and an appetite for all-night village theatre.

How it diverges: Zadipatti developed into a ticketed proscenium circuit with contracted professional troupes; Chhattisgarh's equivalent energy went into Nacha and Pandavani, which are performed in the round and are far less commercial. The tanks on the Chhattisgarh side were built under a different revenue system and are managed differently.

Wainganga–Pranahita Corridor

MaharashtraTelangana

The Gond country on both banks of the Pranahita, a Marathi-speaking population in the Telangana border districts, and a shared ritual calendar — the Nagoba jatra at Keslapur in Adilabad draws Mesram-clan Gonds from Gadchiroli and Chandrapur every year.

How it diverges: The same clans hold different administrative classifications on either side of the river, and the language of schooling changes from Marathi to Telugu. The jatra does not notice the border; the paperwork does.

Central Indian Tiger Landscape

MaharashtraMadhya PradeshChhattisgarhTelangana

One tiger population, moving through forest corridors linking Kanha, Pench, Navegaon-Nagzira, Tadoba and Indravati. Individual animals are documented moving hundreds of kilometres between these reserves.

How it diverges: Tadoba runs high-density tourism and high sighting rates; Melghat runs low disturbance and few visitors; the Chhattisgarh and Telangana ends of the landscape have the connecting forest and comparatively few tigers. The corridors between them are the contested ground, because they carry highways, mines and canals.

Sources

Last reviewed 2026-08-30