Shops and premises

The Silao khaja bazaarSilao, Nalanda

Layered khaja by weight

A single street of shops, all selling the same thing, each claiming the older recipe.

The tilkut lanes of Ramna and Tekari RoadGaya

Tilkut, khoya tilkut and til-gur

Open from November to February only. Buy where you can hear the mallets — the flaking depends entirely on how it is beaten.

Maner laddu shopsManer, Patna district

Coarse-grain gram-flour laddu

Sold at the dargah and along the Patna–Arrah road.

The bhunja shopsAcross Magadh

Grain roasted in sand to order, and sattu ground fresh

Sattu bought from a bhunja shop, ground while you wait, is a different food from the packaged version — worth the detour.

Magahi paan growers of Nawada and NalandaNawada

Magahi betel leaf

Sold in bundles from a small number of cultivator families; the leaves are cured for days before they are considered ready.

Bodh Gaya monastery bookshops and craft stallsBodh Gaya

Stone and metal images, Tibetan thangkas, Pali and Tibetan texts