BharatSangraha

Magadh · Middle & Lower Gangetic Plain

Dress and textiles

Everyday dress here is the plain eastern-plain wardrobe — dhoti or lungi with a gamchha for men, cotton sari for women — and the region's textile interest lies in a single village weave and a robe worn by people who are not from here at all: the maroon and saffron of the monastic communities who have made Bodh Gaya their winter home.

What is worn

Dhoti, kurta and gamchhaMen

White or checked cotton, with the gamchha doing duty as towel, headcloth, sling and shade. Ritual observance requires unstitched cloth, which keeps the dhoti in use.

Worn for: Everyday and ritual

Cotton sari with a coloured borderWomen

Worn in the eastern manner, often drawn over the head; silk for weddings and Chhath.

Worn for: Everyday and festive

Monastic robes at Bodh GayaMonks and nuns of many traditions

Theravada saffron, Tibetan maroon, Japanese black and Korean grey are all ordinary street dress in Bodh Gaya between November and February, in a town of a few thousand permanent residents.

Worn for: Year-round, and heavily in the winter teaching season

Weaves and textiles

Bawan Buti weavingGI tagNalanda (Basawan Bigha)

A cotton and tussar sari carrying fifty-two hand-woven motifs — Buddhist symbols among them, including the wheel, the bodhi leaf and the lotus — worked by extra-weft on a pit loom in a single village. A registered geographical indication.

Nalanda and Gaya handloom cottonNalanda, Gaya

Plain cotton woven for dhoti, gamchha and sari on village pit looms, much reduced but not extinct.

Jewellery

Silver hansuli and payalTikuli, the ornamental forehead discNose ring and jhumkaLac and glass bangles

Traditional dress of Magadh — garments, handloom weaves, GI-tagged textiles and jewellery. (5)