BharatSangraha

Braj · Upper Indus–Gangetic Plain

Dress and textiles

The best-dressed figure in Braj is not a person. The deity is bathed, dressed and changed several times a day to a seasonal schedule — light muslin and sandal in summer, quilted velvet in winter — and an entire tailoring and embroidery trade in Vrindavan exists to make poshak at that scale. Human dress follows the Braj-Rajasthan transition: lehnga and odhni to the west, ghagra-choli and sari to the east.

What is worn

Deity poshakThe temple images

Full sets of stitched garments, jewellery and headwear made to the exact measurements of a particular image, with a separate wardrobe for each season and each major festival. A commercial craft in its own right along Vrindavan's Loi Bazaar.

Worn for: Daily, changed by season and festival

Lehnga and odhniWomen

A gathered skirt with a long veil, in the Braj-Rajasthan style; the pattern and colour shift towards Mewati convention as you move west into Kaman and Hodal.

Worn for: Everyday and festive

Dhoti, bandi and pagriMen

A dhoti with a short jacket and a turban tied in the Braj manner — flatter and looser than the Rajasthani safa and usually white for temple service.

Worn for: Everyday and ritual

Chaubandi and gopi dressPerformers in Raslila

The costumed dress of the boy performers who play Krishna and the gopis — crown, peacock feather, dhoti and full skirt — made by specialist tailors in Vrindavan.

Worn for: Raslila performances

Weaves and textiles

Deity textiles and zari poshakMathura, Vrindavan

Silk, velvet and brocade cut and embroidered with zari for temple images, worked to a seasonal calendar. Much of the base cloth arrives from Banaras and Surat; the making-up and embroidery are local.

Bharatpur and Deeg block printBharatpur, Deeg

A cotton block-printing tradition on the Rajasthan side, closer in palette to Bagru than to the finer Sanganeri work, and made mostly for local wear.

Jewellery

Deity ornament sets in gold and silverNath and borla on the western fringeBangles of lac and glassTulsi bead mala, worn by initiates

Traditional dress of Braj — garments, handloom weaves, GI-tagged textiles and jewellery. (6)