BoyanikaBerhampur and Bhubaneswar
Berhampur patta sarees and joda at fixed prices
The Odisha state handloom weavers' cooperative outlet. Worth using as a price reference before buying in the market, because silk weight and zari content are hard to judge by eye.
UtkalikaBerhampur and Bhubaneswar
State handicrafts emporium — horn work, palm leaf, applique, textiles
Reliable for provenance and unexciting on selection, which is the usual emporium trade-off.
The Berhampur silk weaving lanesBrahmapur (Berhampur)
Patta sarees and joda bought from the loom
Buying here means buying from a weaver or a master weaver rather than a shop. The phoda kumbha border is the identifying detail and the joda is the more traditional purchase.
The chhena and sweet shops of the Aska roadBerhampur, Hinjilicut and Aska
Chhena poda, chhena kheeri and fresh chhena sold by weight
A strip of small shops rather than a single famous house. Chhena poda is best bought in the afternoon of the day it is baked, and the top should be genuinely burnt.
The kewda distilleries around Chhatrapur and RangeilundaGanjam district
Kewda rooh and kewda water
Working distilleries rather than shops, running from late monsoon through the flowering season. Most of the output is sold on to attar houses and the paan and sweet trades outside the state.
Gopalpur fish landingGopalpur-on-Sea
Morning sea catch and sun-dried sukhua
The boats come in early; by mid-morning what is left is going to the drying racks.
The cashew yardsBerhampur and Chhatrapur
Graded cashew kernels sold by the kilo
Grades are sold by whole-kernel count and breakage, not by brand. Broken pieces cost a fraction of whole kernels and taste identical.
Horn-craft workshops, ParalakhemundiParalakhemundi
Combs, figures and containers worked from buffalo horn
A handful of family workshops; production is small and largely emporium-bound.