The Nicobars are the clearest case in India of a region that the map has put in the wrong place. The
languages are Austroasiatic, related to Khasi and Munda and to Khmer beyond them. The houses are round and
stand on piles. The boat is an outrigger. The staple starch is pandanus, boiled and pressed and dried, and
the measure of a family’s standing is how many pigs it can kill at a mortuary feast. None of that comes
from the subcontinent, and none of it is shared with the Andaman group across the Ten Degree Channel, whose
indigenous languages belong to a family of their own.
Two things constrain what can honestly be written here. The first is the tsunami of December 2004, which
killed and displaced a large share of the population, cut one island in two and dropped the southern tip of
India by four metres; the society described here is one that has rebuilt since, not one that was left
undisturbed. The second is that these islands are a closed tribal reserve, and the Shompen of the Great
Nicobar interior are a community with limited contact and legal protection around them. What is set down
here is what is documented. Where the record runs out, it stops.
Terrain and eco-zones
Equatorial, wetter and less seasonal than the Andamans — Great Nicobar in particular takes very heavy rain and holds true evergreen rainforest. Temperatures sit around 23–31 °C with little annual variation. Both monsoons reach the islands, and the southern islands are close enough to the equator that the wind reverses with less force than further north.
Landforms
Flat coral platforms in the north — Car Nicobar and Chowra, with no natural harbour and a surf landingThe Nancowry harbour, a deep sheltered anchorage between Camorta and Nancowry islandsHill and rainforest on Little and Great Nicobar, rising to Mount Thullier at around 640 mMangrove and estuary at Galathea Bay and along Great Nicobar's coastIndira Point, the southernmost point of India, which subsided by around 4.25 m in the 2004 earthquakeFringing coral reef, much of it uplifted or drowned by the 2004 tectonic movement depending on the island
Rivers and waters
Galathea, Alexandra, Dagmar and Amrit Kaur on Great Nicobar — short, fast rainforest rivers, unusual in an island chain otherwise without surface waterThe northern islands have effectively none; water there comes from wells and rain
Through the year
Best time to visitNot a practical question. The Nicobar group is a tribal reserve and is closed to tourism; entry requires specific permission from the administration and is granted for work, research or family reasons rather than for travel.
History
Nicobar needs a different treatment from a mainland region and the difference is worth saying outright. No dynasty ever ruled these islands and no king list exists to reconstruct. Authority here was distributed, not dynastic: property is held by the tuhet, the joint family, and not by individuals; decisions are taken in the village; and the office that colonial administrations dealt with was the village captain, chosen by the heads of the tuhets and issued a written warrant by an outside government rather than inheriting a chiefship. The rulers list below therefore carries offices and administrations, because that is what actually held authority. The written record is entirely external until the twentieth century - Sri Lankan chronicles, an Arabic sailing account, a Chola inscription, Marco Polo, then a Danish claim in 1756 that never became a working colony, an Austrian attempt in 1778, and a British annexation in 1869. The region's modern period therefore begins in 1869 rather than in 1757 or 1858, because that is the first year an administration was actually established over the group. Its ancient and medieval periods carry only what outsiders wrote down, and where the record stops, this stops.
Periodisation is regional, not national — the medieval period does not begin in the same century here as it does elsewhere in India.
Ancientdeep past - c. 1050 CE
The Nicobarese speak Austroasiatic languages, the family of Khasi in the Meghalaya hills and Mundari on the Chota Nagpur plateau, and their material culture - the pile-built round house, the outrigger, pandanus as a staple, the pig as wealth - points to mainland and island Southeast Asia rather than to the subcontinent. How and when that connection was made is not recoverable from documents. What the documents give is a series of sightings: the islands were a known landfall on the Bay of Bengal-Malacca route, named in four languages by people who mostly did not land.
Medievalc. 1050 - 1755
For seven centuries the Nicobars sat on a busy sea lane and were administered by nobody. Ships called for water, coconuts and pandanus and paid in iron, cloth and tobacco; iron was the standard of value and remained so into the nineteenth century. No mainland state established authority here, no tribute was collected and no fort was built. Internally the tuhet held the coconut palms and the pigs, feast-giving between villages carried obligation, and the pottery of Chowra circulated through the group under a monopoly the other islands accepted. The medieval record is thin and it is thin because it is somebody else's record.
Modern1755 - 1947
The modern history of the Nicobars is a sequence of external claims, most of which failed. The Danish East India Company declared the group Danish property on 1 January 1756 and spent ninety years failing to hold it, chiefly to malaria; an Austrian venture in 1778 assumed the Danes had given up and was mistaken; Denmark abandoned the islands in 1848 and sold its rights to Britain in 1868. British administration from 1869 was thin and worked through village captains, and the deepest change of the period was not administrative but the mission and school work on Car Nicobar in the twentieth century, which gave the Nicobarese a written form of their own language. Then the occupation of 1942 to 1945, which is the islands' one experience of war.
Rulers and commanders
The tuhet and its heads Tuhet, the joint family Administrator recorded throughout
The unit that actually holds property and power. Coconut palms, pigs and house-ground belong to the tuhet in common rather than to individuals, and its senior members decide its affairs and choose the village captain. This is why there is no dynasty here to list - the holding unit is a family, and it does not have a throne.
Seat: Every Nicobarese village
The Village Captain Captain, or first captain Administrator recognised from the Danish period; formalised from 1869
An office, not a chiefship. The heads of the tuhets choose a captain, and outside administrations - Danish, then British - recognised him by written warrant and dealt with him as the village's spokesman. The colonial paper did not create the authority, and the authority did not descend by blood.
Seat: Each village
The Second Captain Second captain Administrator recognised from 1869
The deputy office, standing in for the captain and sharing the dealings with the administration and with traders. Its existence is the clearest sign that these are working village offices rather than honorific titles.
Seat: Each village
The Danish East India Company administration Claimant authority, governed from Tranquebar Administrator 1756-1848
Declared the islands Danish on 1 January 1756 and never succeeded in holding them. Ninety years of attempted settlement produced no working administration, a great deal of mortality from malaria, and a legal claim that was eventually sold.
Seat: Tranquebar, with stations attempted at Nancowry
William Bolts Leader of the Austrian venture Founder 1778-1783
Attempted an Austrian trading settlement in the Nancowry group in the belief that the Danish claim had lapsed. The venture collapsed and the Danish claim was reasserted.
Seat: Nancowry
Chief Commissioner of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands Chief Commissioner Administrator 1872-1947
From 1872 the Nicobars were administered from a town in the Andamans, five hundred kilometres north across a channel that separates two unrelated language families. That arrangement is the origin of the joint administrative name the islands still carry.
Seat: Port Blair
The Japanese military administration Occupying authority Administrator 1942-1945
Held the islands for three years, built an airfield on Car Nicobar, requisitioned labour and food, and conducted espionage investigations in which islanders were detained and interrogated.
Seat: Car Nicobar and the Nancowry group
Foodways
A Southeast Asian food system attached to India by administration rather than by cooking. The coconut is everything — food, drink, oil, fuel, roofing and the unit in which wealth and obligation are counted. Beside it stands pandanus, whose fruit is boiled and pressed into a paste that functions as a starch staple; this is the only place in India where pandanus is eaten as a staple rather than used as an aroma. Pigs are reared and eaten at feasts rather than routinely, and are held as much for their social use as for their meat. Fish comes off the reef. What is almost absent is the entire Indian spice apparatus — no masala tradition, very little souring, no dairy, and salt, chilli and smoke doing nearly all of the seasoning.
Primary cooking medium
Coconut, in every form — fresh, milk, oilPork fat, at feasts
Dominant sour agents
Lime and wild citrusSouring is not a marked feature of this kitchen — there is no equivalent of tamarind, kokum or kudampuli in everyday use, and saying so is more accurate than supplying one
Spice register
Minimal by any mainland standard. Salt, chilli where it has been adopted, and the smoke of the house hearth. The flavour of Nicobarese food is coconut, pandanus and pig, and the fact that a cuisine inside India has almost no spice vocabulary is the single most useful thing to know about it. Rice, chilli and mainland seasonings have entered through the ration shop and through settler contact, and the everyday kitchen is now a mixture of the two.
Staple grains and carbs
Rice, mostly supplied rather than grownPandanus paste and yam function as the traditional starch staple in place of any grain — Nicobari aloo, a cultivated form of Dioscorea alata, is grown and stored on Car Nicobar
Preservation methods
Pandanus pulp boiled, pressed and dried into cakes that keep for monthsFish smoked on racks above the house hearth, which is inside the raised hut and burning most of the dayCopra dried in the sun, the islands' one export commodityCoconut oil, pressed and storedLive pigs, which are the most durable form of stored wealth on an island with no bank
Signature techniques
Pandanus paste
The fruit of the pandanus is boiled, scraped and pressed to separate the edible pulp from the fibre, then cooked down and dried into cakes or blocks. It stores, it travels, and it is the reason a society with almost no cereal cultivation had a reliable starch. The Shompen of Great Nicobar rely on it particularly heavily and call it larop.
Also found in: Pacific island societies, where the same technique is used on the same plant
Hearth smoking in the raised house
The fire sits inside the elevated hut, and fish and meat hang above it. The smoke cures the food, keeps insects out of the thatch, and preserves the roof — one fire doing three jobs, which is why the hearth is never allowed to go fully out.
Also found in: Naga Hills, Mizo-Kuki-Chin Hills
Plant fish poison
Crushed seeds and fruit of Barringtonia asiatica and related plants are put into a reef pool or a walled section of shallow water; the saponins stun fish, which are then collected by hand. It is documented in the ethnobotanical literature on the Nicobarese, it works only on enclosed water, and it is an old technique across island Southeast Asia.
Also found in: Naga Hills, Bastar, Island Southeast Asia
Pig rearing for feast
Pigs are raised in and around the village, owned by the tuhet rather than by a person, and killed for feasts — most importantly the mortuary feast. Their number is a public record of a family's standing, so the herd is a ledger as much as a food supply.
Also found in: Naga Hills, Khasi & Jaintia Hills, Siang & the Adi Country
Coconut oil pressing
Kernel dried to copra and pressed for oil, which is used for cooking, for the body and for light. The territory's virgin coconut oil, made in the Nicobarese manner and called Tavi-i-Ngaich, was registered as a geographical indication in December 2024.
Also found in: Lakshadweep, Malabar, Andaman Islands
Toddy tapping
The coconut spathe is bled for sap, drunk fresh or allowed to ferment. Toddy has a social function here as well as a nutritional one and appears at every gathering.
Also found in: Andaman Islands, Malabar, Tulu Nadu
Dishes
Named dishes are the wrong unit here. Nicobarese food is a set of preparations rather than a repertoire of titles, and the published record of local dish names — which differ across at least six languages within the group — is thin enough that inventing them would do more harm than leaving them out. What follows is described by what it is, with local terms given only where they are attested.
Pandanus pastelarop (Shompen)VegetarianStaple
Boiled and pressed pandanus pulp, eaten fresh or dried into keeping cakes. The traditional starch of the islands, and effectively unknown as a staple anywhere else in India.
Roast pigNon-vegetarianFeast
Pig killed, singed and roasted or pit-cooked for a feast — most importantly the mortuary feast, at which the number of animals killed is the measure of the occasion. Pork is feast food and not everyday food.
Smoked fishNon-vegetarianEveryday
Reef and lagoon fish hung above the hearth fire inside the raised house until dry. Because the fire burns most of the day anyway, preservation costs nothing extra.
Fish with coconutNon-vegetarianMain
Fish boiled or cooked with grated coconut and coconut milk, salted, sometimes with chilli. The commonest cooked dish, and the point at which Nicobarese and Andamanese settler cooking most resemble each other.
Nicobari alooVegetarianStaple
A cultivated yam, a form of Dioscorea alata, grown and stored on Car Nicobar and boiled or roasted. It is the subject of a body of documented traditional cultivation knowledge, which is unusual for a tuber crop anywhere in India.
Coconut, at every stage of ripenessVegetarianEveryday
Tender for drinking, soft-fleshed for eating, mature for milk and oil, sprouted for the spongy apple inside. The single most eaten thing in the islands, and the reason the coconut palm is counted, inherited and disputed like land.
Boiled banana and breadfruitVegetarianEveryday
Cooking banana, breadfruit and papaya from village groves, boiled or roasted. The garden crops that fill the gap between pandanus and rice.
Rice from the rationVegetarianStaple
Rice arrives by ship and through the public distribution system, and has become a daily staple over the last several decades. It is worth naming as a dish because its arrival changed the food system more than any single ingredient in the islands' recorded history.
ToddyVegetarianDrink
Coconut sap, drunk fresh or fermented. Present at every gathering and closely tied to feast obligations.
Turtle and dugongNon-vegetarianHistorical
Recorded in the older ethnography as feast and prestige food. Both are now protected species under the Wildlife Protection Act, and this entry is history rather than a menu.
Betel quidVegetarianAfter a meal
Areca and leaf, chewed as widely here as anywhere in island Southeast Asia, and traded between islands alongside pigs and coconuts.
Staples
CoconutPandanus pulpFishYam, banana and breadfruitRice, supplied
Sweets
No developed sweet course is recorded. Sweetness comes from ripe fruit, from coconut and from toddy rather than from a confectionery tradition.
Street food
None. There is no market-street food culture in the Nicobars; food is produced, cooked and shared within the village and the tuhet.
Drinks
Tender coconut waterToddy, fresh and fermentedTea and coffee, introduced
Dress and textiles
There is no loom in the Nicobars and never has been; the islands weave mats, not cloth. Historical dress was a minimal waist covering, and most of what exists as visual record of it consists of colonial photographs taken in circumstances that make them poor evidence and worse illustration. Everyday dress today is the lungi, sarong, shirt and dress of the wider region, with woven and appliquéd items appearing for festival dance. The Shompen are not described here: they are a community with limited contact and legal protection, and their dress is not a subject for a heritage listing.
What is worn
Sarong and lungiMen and women
A wrapped lower cloth worn with a shirt or blouse — the standard dress across the islands, and shared with island Southeast Asia rather than with mainland India.
Worn for: Everyday
Festival dance dressVillage dance groups
Coconut-leaf and fibre ornament, headbands and body decoration worn for group dances, alongside modern cloth. Photographs of these performances are commonly published; photographs of daily life in the reserves are a different matter and are restricted.
Worn for: Ossuary feast, Christmas, canoe race and official festivals
Weaves and textiles
Nicobari mat (Chatrai-hileuoi)GI tagNicobar district
Pandanus and palm leaf split, cured and plaited into sleeping and floor mats. Registered as a geographical indication in December 2024. Mat plaiting rather than weaving is the islands' fibre craft, and the same skill produces the thatch and wall panels of the houses.
Jewellery
Shell and coconut-shell ornamentBoar tusk, historically, as an ornament and a marker of feast-givingImported glass bead and metal ornament, traded in for centuries
Arts and artisanal heritage
Dance
Nicobarese circle danceFolk
Danced in a ring, arms linked or on shoulders, with a unison jump and a sung line that carries the beat. It is performed at night and can continue for hours, and at a mortuary feast it is part of the rite rather than an entertainment attached to it.
Performed by: Village groups, men and women. Occasion: The mortuary feast, canoe races, Christmas and official festivals
Canoe racingFolk
Not a dance, but the same thing socially — village against village, crewed by young men, and the main public contest of the year. The hodi is the boat it is raced in.
Performed by: Village crews. Occasion: Festivals and public occasions
Music
Nicobarese song
Unaccompanied or drum-and-voice singing that carries the circle dance. Song texts belong to occasions — mortuary, launching, welcome — rather than to a concert repertoire.
Guitar and hymn
The guitar is, by the administration's own account, the most widely played instrument in the islands, and Nicobarese-language hymn singing is the most widespread organised music. Both arrived with Anglican mission work in the twentieth century and both are now thoroughly local.
Theatre
No documented theatre tradition
Ritual, dance and feast carry the performative life of these islands. There is no recorded masked or narrative drama, and it is better to record the absence than to invent a form.
Crafts
Hodi — the Nicobari outrigger canoe GI registered Nicobar district
The defining object of Nicobarese material culture, and the territory's first GI application. Registered as a geographical indication in December 2024.
Material: Island hardwood, cane lashing. Technique: A dugout hull worked from a single trunk, raised with strakes and balanced by a single outrigger on cross booms. Built without drawings, by eye and by inherited proportion, and finished for racing as well as for fishing and inter-island transport.
Nicobari hut (Chanvi Pati — Nyi hupul) GI registered Nicobar district
A building type found nowhere else in India, and the clearest single piece of evidence that this archipelago belongs architecturally to island Southeast Asia.
Material: Timber piles, cane, pandanus and palm thatch. Technique: A circular or domed house raised on wooden piles five to seven feet above the ground, entered by a movable ladder, with a single boarded floor and a hearth inside. The pile construction keeps the floor above flood, damp and vermin; the round plan sheds wind from any direction. Registered as a geographical indication in December 2024.
Nicobari mat (Chatrai-hileuoi) GI registered Nicobar district
Registered as a geographical indication in December 2024. The same plaiting skill produces the house walls and roof, so the craft and the architecture are one body of knowledge.
Material: Pandanus and palm leaf. Technique: Leaf split, cured and plaited in close diagonal work into sleeping mats, floor mats and panels.
Tavi-i-Ngaich — Nicobari virgin coconut oil GI registered Nicobar district
Registered as a geographical indication in December 2024. Note for the record that the virgin coconut oil GI belongs to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, not to Lakshadweep, which is a common confusion.
Material: Coconut. Technique: Cold or gentle extraction of oil from fresh kernel without refining or bleaching.
Kareau and hentakoi — carved guardian figures GI-worthy Recorded across the Nicobar group
The best-known Nicobarese carving tradition, heavily collected by colonial officers and now scattered through European museums. It is a healing and protective practice, and describing it as decorative art misses what it is for.
Material: Wood, shell, boar tusk, cane, cloth. Technique: Carved and painted figures, often with mother-of-pearl set for eyes and tusks or a forked tongue added, made by a menluana — a ritual specialist — and set outside a house, particularly the house of a sick person. If the misfortune continued, the figure was held to have lost its power and was replaced.
Chowra pottery GI-worthy Chowra, Nancowry Group
Chowra is the pottery island. The administration's own account of the group records pot-making as Chowra's specialisation, and in the ethnographic literature the island's monopoly on it, and the ritual standing that came with it, is one of the most-discussed features of Nicobarese society — a division of labour by island rather than by caste or guild.
Material: Island clay. Technique: Hand-built, coiled and open-fired earthenware, made without a wheel.
Cane, shell and coconut work Territory-wide
Household craft, made for use rather than for sale, since there is no tourist market here.
Material: Cane, shell, coconut shell. Technique: Splitting, coiling, cutting and polishing into baskets, containers and ornament.
Folk songs
Mortuary feast songsNicobarese
Sung through the night with the circle dance while the feast runs. The songs are part of the rite that closes a death, not a performance attached to it.
Sung at: The ossuary or pig feast.
Canoe and launching songsNicobarese
Work and departure songs tied to the boat, which is the most valuable object a village makes and the one it competes with.
Sung at: Building, launching and racing a hodi.
Nicobarese hymnodyNicobarese
Christian hymns sung in Nicobarese, often to guitar. Because the Bible was translated into Nicobarese and published in 1970, hymn singing became one of the main channels through which the language is used in a written, standardised form.
Sung at: Church, Christmas, community gatherings.
Welcome and feast-giving songsNicobarese
Songs of hospitality and obligation, in a society where feast-giving between villages and tuhets is the main way status is settled.
Sung at: Receiving visitors, inter-village feasts.
Dialect and oral traditions
Nicobarese is Austroasiatic — the family of Khasi, Munda, Khmer and Vietnamese — which puts these islands in the same linguistic world as the Meghalaya hills and mainland Southeast Asia and gives them no relationship at all to the Andamanese languages across the Ten Degree Channel. Within the group there are at least six languages, and a speaker from Car Nicobar cannot simply be understood in the Nancowry group or on Great Nicobar. The Car Nicobarese language has by far the most speakers and, since the Bible translation of 1970 and the mission schools, the most written life. The Shompen language of interior Great Nicobar is Austroasiatic too but stands apart, and it is documented only lightly, because contact is limited by law and by the community's own practice.
Speech varieties
Car NicobareseAustroasiatic, Nicobaric
Written in Roman script through mission use, with a printed Bible and hymnals, and the variety most often meant when "Nicobarese" is used without qualification.
Speakers: The largest Nicobarese speech community, on Car Nicobar
Central group languages — Camorta, Nancowry, Katchal, TrinketAustroasiatic, Nicobaric
Several closely related varieties around the Nancowry harbour. Nineteenth-century European linguistic work on Nicobarese was largely done here, because the harbour is where the ships stopped.
Chowra and TeressaAustroasiatic, Nicobaric
Distinct northern varieties. Chowra's linguistic separateness sits alongside its economic separateness as the pottery island.
Southern group — Great and Little NicobarAustroasiatic, Nicobaric
The southernmost Nicobarese varieties, spoken by coastal villages on the two largest and least populous islands.
ShompenAustroasiatic; internal position debated
Reported to vary between bands to the point of limited mutual intelligibility. Linguistic and genetic studies exist but the material is thin, and the community's contact with outsiders is restricted by law.
Speakers: A few hundred, in the interior of Great Nicobar
Indigenous terminology
Places
Car NicobarHeritageNicobar
A flat coral island ringed by villages, the district headquarters at Malacca, an air force station, and the centre of Nicobarese Christianity. It has no natural harbour, so everything historically came ashore through surf. The 2004 tsunami crossed much of the island and the air force station lost more than a hundred personnel and family members. Entry requires administration permission.
Nancowry HarbourHeritageNicobar
The deep sheltered anchorage between Camorta and Nancowry islands — the reason Danish, Austrian and British expeditions kept returning to the Nicobars from the eighteenth century onwards, and the site of a long sequence of failed European settlements defeated by malaria.
ChowraHeritageNicobar
A small island whose people are the group's potters, and whose standing in the islands' inter-island exchange is out of all proportion to its size. Closed to visitors.
Trinket IslandNatureNicobar
Cut into two by the 2004 tsunami and its population resettled. It is the plainest surviving physical record of what that wave did to the group, and it is not a visitor site.
Great Nicobar Biosphere ReserveWildlifeNicobar
Rainforest, mangrove and reef over much of the largest island, with Campbell Bay and Galathea National Parks inside it. Habitat of the Nicobar megapode, which incubates its eggs in a mound of sand and leaf litter, and of the giant leatherback turtle, which nests on the Galathea beaches. The island's interior is Shompen territory and is not open.
Indira PointNatureNicobar
The southernmost point of India, about 150 km from Sumatra. Its lighthouse was damaged and the point itself subsided by roughly 4.25 metres in the 2004 earthquake — the coastline of the country was permanently redrawn in a few minutes.
Galathea BayNatureNicobar
A river mouth and bay on the south-east of Great Nicobar, a major leatherback nesting beach, and the site of the transshipment port and township project approved for the island in the 2020s. It is the central point of contention in the islands' current politics.
Campbell BayUrbanNicobar
The main settlement on Great Nicobar, with a mixed population of Nicobarese and mainland settlers, reached by ship from Port Blair or by air. The practical base for anything on the island.
KatchalNatureNicobar
A central-group island with a plantation history and a mixed Nicobarese and settler population. It was among the most severely hit places in the 2004 tsunami.
Freedom fighters
This section is short because the record is short, and padding it would be the worse error. There was no anti-colonial movement in the Nicobars: no Congress committee, no revolutionary group, no peasant or tribal rising against the British, and no Nicobarese participation in the mainland campaigns. The reason is structural rather than temperamental. Britain acquired these islands in 1868 by buying out a Danish claim, not by conquering anyone; the administration that followed was thin, worked through village captains already chosen by the tuhets, and attempted no revenue settlement and no land alienation of the kind that produced risings elsewhere. There was very little for a movement to attach itself to. What the twentieth century did bring here was war, and the community's documented experience of coercion is the Japanese occupation of 1942 to 1945. Only one individual can be named from the record with confidence, and naming others would mean inventing them.
Risings and revolts
The transfer of 1868 and the annexation of 186916 October 1868 - 1869
Denmark sold its rights in the group to Britain and Britain annexed the islands the following year. No Nicobarese party was consulted in the transaction and no Nicobarese authority signed it; the islands changed hands between two European states on paper.
Outcome: Administration from Port Blair, a station at Nancowry, and the formalisation of the village captain by written warrant. Land and palms stayed with the tuhet, which is why the annexation produced no dispossession of the kind that provoked risings on the mainland.
The Japanese occupation1942-1945
Japanese forces held the islands for three years, building an airfield on Car Nicobar and requisitioning labour across the island from 1943. Islanders were detained and interrogated on suspicion of signalling to Allied ships; John Richardson, the island's Anglican catechist, was among those imprisoned and tortured.
Outcome: British administration returned in October 1945. The occupation is the only period of organised violence against this population recorded in its documented history, and it came from an occupying army rather than from a colonial administration.
People
Shops and premises
None on the islandsNicobar district
Nothing, and that is the accurate entry
The Nicobars are a tribal reserve and closed to tourism, so there is no retail or craft market aimed at visitors anywhere in the group. Village production is for use and for exchange within the islands.
Sagarika Government EmporiumPort Blair
Nicobari mats, hodi models and island craft, sold on the Andaman side
The place where Nicobari craft is actually available to an outsider, several hundred kilometres from where it is made — which is itself a fair description of how the two halves of this union territory relate.
Village and island co-operative societiesCar Nicobar and the Nancowry group
Copra and coconut oil marketing
The co-operatives are the mechanism by which the coconut economy meets the cash economy, and they matter more to island livelihoods than any shop does.
How to reach
By air
- Car Nicobar (INS Baaz and the air force station) — Air links to the Nicobars run through defence and administration channels rather than commercial ones. There is no scheduled tourist flying into the group.
- Veer Savarkar International Airport, Port Blair (IXZ) — The gateway to the territory. Everything bound for the Nicobars is arranged from here.
By rail
- None — There is no railway anywhere in the union territory, and the mainland railheads that matter are those serving the ship terminals at Chennai, Kolkata and Visakhapatnam.
By road
Roads exist on Car Nicobar, in the Nancowry group and along part of Great Nicobar's east coast, including the road running south from Campbell Bay towards Indira Point
By water
Government ships from Port Blair to Car Nicobar, the Nancowry group and Campbell BayInter-island boats and hodis within the groupLanding on Car Nicobar is through surf, since the island has no natural harbour; Nancowry has one of the best anchorages in the Bay of Bengal
Getting around
The practical position for a visitor is that there is none, because there is no visiting. The Nicobar group is a tribal reserve; entry requires specific permission from the administration and is granted for work, research, official duty or family reasons. Foreign nationals are not admitted to the group's tribal areas at all, and the relaxations of the Restricted Area Permit that opened parts of the Andamans did not open these reserves.
The small things
- An Austroasiatic archipelagoNicobarese belongs to the same language family as Khasi in Meghalaya, Mundari on the Chota Nagpur plateau, Khmer and Vietnamese. It is not related to the Andamanese languages 150 km north, and it is not related to Malay or the Austronesian languages of the islands immediately south. The nearest relatives of the speech of these islands are on the Asian mainland.
- A house built round for a reasonThe Nicobari hut is circular and raised on piles five to seven feet up, entered by a ladder that can be pulled in. The height keeps the floor above damp, flood and vermin; the round plan presents no flat face to a wind from any direction; the hearth inside cures the thatch and the fish at once. The type holds a geographical indication and exists nowhere else in India.
- Pandanus as a stapleAcross most of India pandanus is an aroma — kewra water, a leaf in the rice pot. Here the fruit is boiled, pressed and dried into cakes and eaten as the starch of the meal. It is the single clearest sign that this food system belongs with the Pacific and island Southeast Asia rather than with the subcontinent.
- Wealth that walks and wealth that growsA tuhet's standing is measured in pigs and coconut palms, both owned jointly by the family rather than by individuals. Neither can be quietly liquidated: the pigs are counted at feasts and the palms are planted where everyone can see them. It is a property system with public accounting built into it.
- One island makes the potsChowra, a small island in the central group, is the Nicobars' potter. The administration's own account of the islands lists pottery as Chowra's occupation, and the ethnographic literature treats its monopoly on the craft — and the standing that came with it — as a defining feature of the group's inter-island exchange.
- The morning the coast movedThe earthquake of 26 December 2004 and the tsunami that followed hit the Nicobars harder than anywhere else in India. Official figures for the union territory record about 1,310 dead and around 5,600 missing, with the Nicobar group taking the greatest share. Trinket Island was cut in two, Indira Point subsided by roughly 4.25 metres, and the Car Nicobar air force station lost more than a hundred personnel and family members. The islands did not simply lose people; they changed shape.
- A bishop in the Lok SabhaJohn Richardson of Car Nicobar was nominated to the first Lok Sabha in 1952 and later became an Anglican bishop — the only Anglican bishop to have sat in the lower house of a national parliament. He also produced the Nicobarese Bible, published in 1970, which gave the language its main body of standardised written text.
- Feasts that end a deathThe mortuary or ossuary feast, held some years after a burial, involves exhuming and cleaning the bones, reinterring them, killing pigs and dancing through the night. The number of pigs is the measure of the occasion, and the whole rearing economy of a village is oriented towards being able to hold one. This is the fixed point of Nicobarese social life; almost everything else can be read off it.
- A figure that stops workingA kareau or hentakoi is carved by a menluana and set outside a house against illness. If the illness or misfortune continues, the figure is judged to have lost its power and is replaced. It is an object with an expiry condition rather than a permanent idol, which is why so many were available to be collected and are now in European museums.
- The Shompen, and what is not written hereAround two hundred to three hundred Shompen live in the interior of Great Nicobar, hunting, gathering, fishing and gardening, in bands whose speech varies enough that mutual intelligibility is limited. They are listed as a Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Group and protected under the Andaman and Nicobar Islands Protection of Aboriginal Tribes Regulation, 1956; entry into the reserve and photography of the community are prohibited. Beyond this, published knowledge is genuinely limited, and this entry stops where the evidence does.
- A port at a turtle beachThe Great Nicobar development project approved in the 2020s would put a transshipment port, an airport, a power plant and a township on and around Galathea Bay — a leatherback turtle nesting beach, inside a biosphere reserve, on an island whose interior is Shompen territory. Tribal councils, scientists and parliamentarians have contested the land consents and clearances attached to it, and the argument is live.
- The islands that outlasted their colonistsDenmark, Austria and Britain all tried to settle the Nancowry harbour between the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; malaria defeated every attempt. The main thing those expeditions left behind is the earliest written record of Nicobarese language and life — documentation produced by settlements that failed.
Cross-border corridors
Traditions that continue past an administrative line. Written once at the corridor level and referenced from every region it crosses, never duplicated.
The Austroasiatic Corridor
Andaman & NicobarMeghalayaJharkhandOdisha
Language family, and with it a set of deep structural features — Nicobarese sits with Khasi in the Meghalaya hills and with the Munda languages of the eastern plateau, not with anything else in the islands or on the coasts around them.
How it diverges: Khasi and Munda speakers live in hill and plateau country with rice, cattle and mainland neighbours; Nicobarese speakers live on coral and rainforest islands with coconut, pig and pandanus. The relationship is real and it is ancient, and there is no continuous chain of speakers between them.
The Island Southeast Asia CorridorInternational
Andaman & NicobarIDMyanmar
Pile-built houses, outrigger canoes, pandanus staple food, leaf plaiting, betel, plant fish poison and pig feasting — a whole material and subsistence complex that is standard across island Southeast Asia and appears in India only here.
How it diverges: Sumatra lies about 150 km from Indira Point and is a different country with a different history of state formation, Islam and colonisation. The Nicobars kept the material culture and were administered into India, so the same house type and boat type sit on either side of a national border with no traffic between them.
The Mission Corridor
Andaman & NicobarMizoramNagalandMeghalaya
Protestant mission work, a translated Bible, hymn singing, Roman-script literacy in an indigenous language, and church-based village organisation — the same sequence that reshaped the north-eastern hills, arriving here in the twentieth century.
How it diverges: In the north-east the churches became large institutions with political weight; in the Nicobars the population is small and the church's most durable product is the standardised written language itself.
The Ten Degree Channel
Andaman & Nicobar
Administration, ships, settlers and the ration supply. Almost nothing else. The two halves of one union territory have unrelated languages, unrelated architectures and unrelated food systems.
How it diverges: The Andaman group's indigenous languages form a family of their own and its settler culture is a hundred and fifty years old; the Nicobar group is Austroasiatic, Christian, canoe-and-pig based, and closed. Sharing a lieutenant governor has not made them one region.
The Copra and Ration Corridor
Andaman & NicobarTamil NaduWest Bengal
Coconut and copra out; rice, fuel, cloth and building material in, on government ships from Port Blair and the mainland. It is a trade corridor rather than a cultural one, and it is the mechanism by which rice became a Nicobarese staple within living memory.
How it diverges: On the mainland these are ordinary commodity flows; here the shipping schedule sets what a household eats, and a delayed sailing is a food-security event rather than an inconvenience.
Sources
Last reviewed 2026-08-30