BharatSangraha

Mithilanchal · Middle & Lower Gangetic Plain

Dress and textiles

Mithila dresses plainly and marks ritual precisely. The Maithil wedding sari is unbleached cotton with a red or yellow border and turmeric staining; the paag — a stiff, sloping turban — is a mark of honour with a strict grammar of who may wear it and when, and it survives as a formal presentation to guests and dignitaries.

What is worn

PaagMen

A sloping, ridged turban of red, yellow or white, tied on a base — the single most recognisable Maithil object. Presenting a paag is how the region honours a visitor, and its colour and form used to encode standing.

Worn for: Weddings, rituals, honours

Dhoti and kurta with chadarMen

Plain white cotton, worn with a shawl at ceremonies. Ritual dress requires unstitched cloth, which is why the dhoti persists where it has gone elsewhere.

Worn for: Everyday and ritual

Turmeric-dyed wedding sariBrides and married women

Unbleached cotton stained yellow with turmeric and bordered in red, worn through the wedding rituals and the thirteen days of Madhushravani that follow.

Worn for: Weddings and Madhushravani

Sari with a red borderWomen

Cotton in summer and silk for ceremony, worn in the eastern manner with the pallu over the left shoulder and often drawn over the head.

Worn for: Everyday and festive

Weaves and textiles

Sujini embroideryGI tagMuzaffarpur (Bhusra) and Madhubani

A running-stitch quilting on layered old cloth, outlined in chain stitch, made originally as a wrap for a newborn. Revived from the 1980s by women's groups, and now carries narrative panels about the lives of the women who stitch them. A registered geographical indication.

Khatwa appliqueGI tagMadhubani, Darbhanga

Cut-and-stitched applique on cotton, historically for canopies, tents and shamiyanas — figures and motifs applied in contrasting colour.

Handloom cotton of the Mithila villagesMadhubani, Darbhanga

Plain coarse cotton woven for dhoti, sari and gamchha in village pit looms, much reduced by mill cloth but still the source of ritual textiles.

Jewellery

Silver hansuli and paayalTikuli — the ornamental forehead disc, a Bihar craft in its own rightNose ring and karnaphoolConch-shell and lac bangles at weddings

Traditional dress of Mithilanchal — garments, handloom weaves, GI-tagged textiles and jewellery. (7)