The BangalaKaraikudi
Chettinad meals served in sequence in a restored family bungalow
Long-standing and much written about; meals are set rather than ordered, and the kitchen is the reference point most food writers use for the cuisine.
Marava & Ramnad · Eastern Coastal Plains
Shops and premises
Athangudi tile workshopsAthangudi
Handmade cement tiles cast face-down on glass
Several family units in and around the village. Ordering is by design and quantity, and a floor is usually quoted with a lead time of weeks because the curing cannot be hurried.
Muneeswaran Koil Street antiques marketKaraikudi
Architectural salvage — teak columns, doors, brass, Belgian mirror glass
Worth knowing what you are buying. Much of the stock comes out of mansions that were demolished because the timber was worth more than the building.
Kandangi weaving clusterKaraikudi and Kandanur
Heavy cotton Kandangi sarees on pit looms
Buy from the weavers' societies if you want the coarse traditional width rather than a lightened export version.
Manamadurai potters' streetManamadurai
Water pots, curd pots and cooking pots in unglazed red clay
The clay blend is specific to the town and forms part of the geographical indication.
Ramanathapuram chilli marketRamanathapuram, with Mudukulathur and Kamuthi
Sun-dried Ramnad Mundu chilli
A round, thick-skinned, mild chilli sold whole. The season runs from the end of the northeast monsoon.
Rameswaram fish landingRameswaram
Reef and bay fish, crab and squid straight off the boats
Auctions run in the early morning; the eating stalls behind the landing cook what did not sell.
Famous shops, markets and workshops in Marava & Ramnad, and what each is known for. (7)