Foodways
The Ladakhi kitchen is organised around three scarcities — fuel, water and time. Fuel is dung and dwarf shrub, so the food that gets eaten most is the food that needs least heat: barley roasted once, in bulk, then ground and eaten cold with buttered tea for the rest of the year. Water is glacier melt on a rota, so the crop is a single short-season barley rather than anything thirsty. Time is four growing months against eight of storage, so almost every technique in the repertoire is a preservation technique. What is conspicuously absent is spice: over the Zoji La the Kashmiri kitchen runs on fennel, dry ginger and chilli, and here, four hours away by road, the seasoning is salt, butter and fermentation, with a little wild caraway. That is not poverty of taste but arithmetic — nothing aromatic grows above 3,000 m, and everything imported had to come by pack animal.
Primary cooking medium
Butter from yak, dzo and cow milk — the central fat, eaten in tea rather than cooked withApricot kernel oil, pressed from the sweet-kernel varieties grown for exactly that purposeRendered sheep and goat fatMustard oil and refined oils, brought in by road and now the everyday frying medium
Dominant sour agents
Tara — thin buttermilk left from churning, and the base of the cold soup tangturZho, set curd, and the whey drained off in making chhurpiSea buckthorn berries, gathered from riverside thickets and pressed into an intensely sour juiceDried apricot, cooked into savoury dishes as much as sweet onesFermented turnip and greens from the winter store
Spice register
Minimal by design and by supply. Salt is the primary seasoning and was historically the region's own product, scraped from the Changthang lake margins and traded from further east. Wild caraway gathered on the slopes, a little local wild onion and garlic, coriander leaf where it can be grown, and imported chilli and garam masala in the modern kitchen. The flavour that a Ladakhi dish is actually built on is the savoury depth of fermented dairy and slowly cooked barley or wheat dough — closer in logic to a Central Asian noodle kitchen than to anything on the Indian plains.
Staple grains and carbs
Naked barley (nas) — the region's grain, roasted and ground into ngampheBuckwheat, grown where barley will not ripenWheat in the lower and warmer valleys, mostly for breadPea and black pea, ground into flour and mixed with barleyRice, entirely imported, and now common on the Leh plate
Preservation methods
Sha skam — meat air-dried through the winter without salt, smoke or cureChhurpi — the hard cheese pressed from churning residue, which keeps for yearsButter stored in skins and in wooden churns, kept long enough to be used for lamps as well as foodSun-dried turnip, radish greens, spinach and wild greens, hung on walls and raftersPhating — apricots dried whole on flat roofs, kernels cracked separately for eating and for oilChhang and its distillate, which convert a barley surplus into something that keepsRoot cellars and unheated store rooms, where the winter does the refrigeration
Signature techniques
Ngamphe — roasting the grain before grinding it
Barley is parched with hot sand in a pan, sieved and then ground, often at a water-driven mill on an irrigation channel. The flour is therefore already cooked: it can be mixed with butter tea in the bowl by hand into a stiff dough called kholak and eaten immediately, with no fire, no pot and no water boiled. In a place where fuel is dung and every stick of shrub is counted, a staple that needs no cooking is the single most important thing in the larder.
Also found in: Kinnaur & Spiti, Monpa & Tawang Belt, Sikkim & Darjeeling Hills
Gur-gur cha — churning fat and salt into tea
Brick tea is boiled long with soda, then poured into a tall wooden churn with butter and salt and worked with a plunger until it emulsifies — the churn's noise is what the drink is named after. The result delivers fat, salt and hot water in one vessel, which at 3,500 m in February is a more useful set of properties than flavour. It is drunk all day, and the bowl is topped up rather than emptied.
Also found in: Kinnaur & Spiti, Monpa & Tawang Belt, Sikkim & Darjeeling Hills
Sha skam — drying meat in cold dry air
An animal killed at the start of winter is jointed and hung in an unheated shed. Below freezing, in air this dry, the meat loses water faster than bacteria can work, so no salt cure and no smoke are needed — neither of which the region could spare. The dried meat is later shredded into skyu and thukpa, where it functions as seasoning as much as protein.
Also found in: Kinnaur & Spiti, Changthang and the Tibetan plateau generally
Chhurpi — storing a summer in a stone
Milk is churned for butter; the residue is boiled, drained, pressed and dried into cubes hard enough to chip. It keeps for years, travels in a pocket, is chewed slowly on the move by herders, and is softened back into stews in winter. The whole point is that milk arrives in a three-month flood and must be available in January.
Also found in: Sikkim & Darjeeling Hills, Monpa & Tawang Belt, Kinnaur & Spiti
Chhang — barley fermented with a starter cake
Boiled barley is cooled, mixed with a dried yeast-and-herb starter, and left to ferment in a covered vessel; water is poured through the mash to draw off the beer, sometimes several times, so the strength falls with each drawing. Chhang is a food as much as a drink — it converts a grain surplus into something that keeps, and it is poured at every ritual and every stage of a marriage negotiation.
Also found in: Kinnaur & Spiti, Sikkim & Darjeeling Hills, Monpa & Tawang Belt
Apricot as oil, fruit and stone
The tree is grown for three products. The flesh is dried whole on flat roofs. The stone is cracked and the kernel eaten, in the sweet-kernel varieties selected for it. And the kernel is pressed for a cooking and lamp oil that was, before road-borne mustard oil, the only vegetable fat the region had. A variety is chosen as much for its stone as for its fruit, which is why the region's best-known cultivar is named for the colour of its seed.
Also found in: Kinnaur & Spiti, Kashmir Valley