Shops and premises

Ankadeli haatOnukudelli, Malkangiri district

The weekly market below the Bonda hills

Traditionally held on Thursdays. Bonda women walk down from the hill with forest produce and buy salt, yarn and beads. It is a working market, not a spectacle — photography without asking is resented, and rightly.

Chatikona haatChatikona, Rayagada district

The Dongria Kondh market at the foot of Niyamgiri

Traditionally a Wednesday market, where hill horticulture — pineapple, jackfruit, banana, turmeric, ginger, orange — comes down and grain, oil and cloth go up.

Kunduli haatKunduli, Koraput district

The plateau's largest weekly market

Millet, mahua, tamarind, mushrooms in season, livestock, iron tools and salap by the pot. Check the market day locally before travelling; the surrounding villages organise their week around it.

Kotpad weavers' clusterKotpad, Koraput district

Aal-dyed cotton saris, stoles and yardage

Buying at the weaver's own house or through the cooperative puts the price where the months of dyeing happened. Ask to see the dye yard.

BoyanikaBhubaneswar, Jeypore and district towns

Odisha handloom, including Kotpad and Habaspuri

The state weavers' cooperative outlet — the reliable place to find these weaves outside their villages.

UtkalikaBhubaneswar and district centres

Odisha handicrafts, including dokra, terracotta and tribal jewellery

The state handicrafts emporium; useful mainly for comparison before buying in the villages.

Tribes India outlet, KoraputKoraput

Millet, forest produce, dokra and craft bought through tribal cooperatives

Millet Shakti outletsKoraput, Bhawanipatna and other district towns

Ragi and little millet cooked as tiffin — mandia jau, millet idli, millet pitha

Run under the state millet programme with self-help groups. It is the easiest place for a visitor to eat the region's actual staple rather than its restaurant version.