BharatSangraha

Desh · Deccan Inland Plateau

Shops and premises

Chitale Bandhu MithaiwalePunesince 1950

Bakarwadi, amba barfi and mithai

An offshoot of a Chitale family dairy started at Bhilawadi in Sangli district in 1939. The Pune shop's fixed opening hours and refusal to extend them were locally famous long before they became an internet joke.

Kayani BakeryPune (East Street)since 1955

Shrewsbury biscuits

An Irani bakery that sells out most mornings and does not deliver.

Sujata MastaniPune (Sadashiv Peth)

Mastani

One of the shops that made the drink a Pune category rather than a single recipe.

Bedekar MisalPune (Narayan Peth)

Puneri misal

Sweeter and less fierce than the Kolhapur style, and a reference point for the difference.

Khasbag MisalKolhapur

Kolhapuri misal with unlimited kat

Named for the Khasbag maidan nearby; the tarri is refilled until you stop asking.

Padma Guest HouseKolhapur

Tambda and pandhra rassa with mutton thali

One of the long-running mutton houses where the two-rassa service is standard rather than a novelty.

Mahadwar Road chappal marketKolhapur

Kolhapuri chappal bought from the makers

Worth knowing that a genuine vegetable-tanned pair is heavy, stiff for weeks and outlasts several cheap imitations; the imitations are what most visitors buy.

Sangli market yardSangli

Turmeric, and the underground curing pits behind it

A working commodity market rather than a visitor site, and best seen on an auction morning.

Gujari bazaarKolhapur

Kolhapuri Saaj and silver ornament work

Ask for a full twenty-one-pendant saaj to see the named motifs; most shops sell shortened versions.

The Sitarmaker workshopsMiraj, Sangli district

Tanpuras and sitars, made to order

A handful of families in one lane; instruments are built over months and the jawari is set by ear, so visits are best arranged in advance.

Satara kandi pedha shopsSatara

Kandi pedha, a dense scorched-milk sweet

The pedha is deliberately over-reduced, which is what gives it the caramel edge and the keeping quality.

Famous shops, markets and workshops in Desh, and what each is known for. (11)