पहनावा और वस्त्र
Three wardrobes with almost nothing in common share this region. The Marathi cotton plain dresses in the nine-yard and the dhotar. The Gond and Madia households of the eastern forest dress in coarse white or undyed cotton with heavy aluminium and brass ornament and, in the older generation, godna tattooing that was put on rather than put away. And since 1956 there is a fourth thing — plain white worn at Buddhist ceremonies and at Deekshabhoomi, chosen precisely because it carries no caste marking at all.
क्या पहना जाता है
Nauvari sari, Varhadi drapeWomen
Nine yards worn with the pleats drawn back and tucked, the pallu taken over the right shoulder and often over the head. The drape differs from the Desh version in how the pallu is fixed, which older women can spot at a distance.
किस मौके पर: Everyday among older women, ceremonial among younger
Dhotar, sadra and phetaMen, rural
A dhoti with a collarless shirt and a tied pheta or Gandhi topi. Wardha and its surroundings wear khadi versions of all three, which is not a costume choice but the residue of a village-industry programme that has been running here since the 1930s.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and ceremonial
Gond and Madia dressGond and Madia communities of the eastern forests
A short coarse cotton sari worn without a blouse in the older style, with heavy aluminium or brass neck rings, arm rings and hair combs. Men wear a short dhoti and a cloth over the shoulder. Ornament is worn in quantity and is a household's stored value.
किस मौके पर: Everyday
GodnaGond and other forest communities, women in particular
Tattoo work in geometric bands on the forearms, shins, throat and forehead, applied with a needle and soot at named stages of life. It is dress in the sense that it is worn permanently, and it is now largely confined to the oldest generation.
किस मौके पर: Marked at fixed points in a life
Buddhist whiteBuddhist households
Plain white sari or kurta, worn with a Panchsheel flag or badge. Adopted after 1956 as a deliberately unmarked dress, and now the standard ceremonial wear of a very large population across the region.
किस मौके पर: Dhamma Chakra Pravartan Din, weddings, funerals, vihara ceremonies
Banjara kanchali and ghaghraGor Banjara women
Mirror, cowrie and coin-worked blouse and skirt with stacked upper-arm bangles. Pohradevi in Washim is the largest Banjara pilgrimage centre in the country, so this dress is at its most visible here in February.
किस मौके पर: Everyday among older women, festive among younger
बुनाई और कपड़े
Karvath KathiNagpur and Bhandara, principally Umred and Pauni
A cotton sari whose name means saw-tooth, for the triangular border formed by interlocking the border and body wefts on the loom rather than by any added thread. Historically woven for wear in the Vidarbha heat — heavier in the border and very open in the body. Down to a small number of working looms.
Wardha khadiWardha
Hand-spun, hand-woven cotton produced by institutions set up at Wardha and Sevagram from the 1930s. The cloth is ordinary; the production chain — carding, spinning and weaving all kept in the village — was the entire argument.
Coarse forest cottonGadchiroli, Chandrapur
Undyed or indigo-dyed thick cotton woven on frame looms for the forest villages, in short widths and with minimal patterning. Largely displaced by mill cloth.
गहने
Thushi and putali haar at the neckBugadi and kudi at the earAluminium and brass neck rings, arm rings and hair combs among Gond and Madia womenSilver jodvi and painjan at the footBhuriya, the stacked Banjara upper-arm banglesPanchsheel and Ashoka Chakra pendants, worn since 1956