दुकानें और बाज़ार

Ananda BazarPuri, inside the Jagannath temple enclosure

Mahaprasad sold in earthen pots and on leaf plates

Not a restaurant and not a distribution counter — a market, where the food is bought at a price and eaten on the spot, and where people who would not share a plate anywhere else do so by rule.

The Pahala rasagola stallsPahala, on the Bhubaneswar–Cuttack road

Rasagola sold by the kilo, hot, from rows of roadside shops

A strip of competing shops rather than a single institution; buying at the stall means eating them within the day, which is how they are meant to be eaten.

The Cuttack filigree workshopsCuttack, around Nayasadak and the old lanes

Silver tarakasi — jhumka, brooches, boxes and full ornament sets

Buy where the wire is being drawn. Weight, silver purity and hours of work are the whole price, and the shops that only retail cannot explain any of the three.

Raghurajpur artists' verandahsRaghurajpur, Puri district

Pattachitra, palm-leaf etching, ganjapa cards and masks

Every house sells. Ask which pigments were used — natural hingula, haritala and lamp black behave differently from poster colour, and the difference in price is real.

Pipili's appliqué shopfrontsPipili, on the Bhubaneswar–Puri road

Chandua canopies, umbrellas, wall hangings and lampshades

The old work is hand-stitched and the tourist work is machine-run; the stitching on the reverse tells you which you are holding.

BoyanikaBhubaneswar, Cuttack and district towns

Odisha handloom — Khandua, Bomkai, Sambalpuri bandha, Habaspuri

The state weavers' cooperative outlet, and the place to compare weaves before going to a village.

UtkalikaBhubaneswar

Odisha handicrafts, including filigree, pattachitra, sola and horn work

The state handicrafts emporium — fixed price, and useful as a baseline.

Ekamra HaatBhubaneswar

A permanent open-air crafts market with rotating artisan stalls

The Cuttack dahibara cartsCuttack, Chandni Chowk and Buxi Bazar

Dahi bara aloo dum, eaten standing

Sold from mid-morning until it runs out. The best-known carts have queues and no signage worth reading.