पहनावा और वस्त्र
Three dress traditions run side by side and are worn as community markers rather than as regional costume — a Bhutia household wears the kho, a Lepcha household the thokro-dum, a Nepali-speaking household daura-suruwal and chaubandi cholo, and on a festival morning in Gangtok all three are on the same street. The shared constraint is cold and slope: wrapped, belted, layered garments with a waistband that doubles as a carrying pouch, and cloth heavy enough to be worn as a blanket.
क्या पहना जाता है
Kho (bakhu)Bhutia men and women
A loose full-sleeved wrap gown pulled up and belted at the waist so the fold above the belt becomes a pocket. Women wear it sleeveless over the honju blouse with a pangden — the woven striped apron marking a married woman — tied in front.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and formal
Thokro-dumLepcha men
White trousers to the calf worn with the yenthatse shirt and a shambo cap, with a cloth knotted over one shoulder. Cut for walking and for working in forest.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and ceremonial
Dumdyam (dumvum)Lepcha women
A single long cloth pinned at both shoulders and belted, worn over a full-sleeved blouse with a shawl. The cloth was traditionally woven at home on a backstrap loom.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and ceremonial
Daura-suruwal and dhaka topiNepali-speaking men
A closed double-breasted shirt tied at the side with eight cloth ties, narrow trousers, a waistcoat and the angled dhaka-cloth cap. The eight ties and the five-fold construction carry symbolic readings, but the cut itself is a practical wrap garment.
किस मौके पर: Formal and festival
Chaubandi cholo and gunyuNepali-speaking women
A side-tied wrap blouse worn with a draped gunyu, a patuka wound tightly at the waist and a majetro shawl across the shoulder. The patuka is a load-bearing garment as much as a decorative one.
किस मौके पर: Formal and festival
Mekhli and tagaLimbu women and men
The Limbu wrap and blouse worn with heavy coin and bead jewellery, and the men's white taga with a waistband, seen most often at Chasok Tangnam and at dhan nach gatherings.
किस मौके पर: Festival and wedding
बुनाई और कपड़े
Dhaka clothDarjeeling, Kalimpong, Gangtok
A handloom cotton with geometric supplementary-weft patterning, woven with the motifs counted rather than drawn, so no two lengths repeat exactly. It is the cloth of the topi and of the shawl, and it is woven on both sides of the ridge.
Lepcha backstrap weaveDzongu and the Teesta valley
Narrow panels woven on a body-tensioned loom in striped and banded patterns from nettle fibre, cotton and wool, then joined into a garment. The loom needs no frame, which is why it survived in scattered forest settlements.
Sikkimese hand-knotted woollen carpetGangtok
Wool carpets knotted on an upright loom in Tibetan technique, with dragon, phoenix and lotus motifs, made at the state cottage industries institute and by private workshops around it.
PangdenSikkim and the Kalimpong slope
The multi-striped woven apron of a married Bhutia woman, joined from three narrow loom widths, whose stripe arrangement is itself the signal.
गहने
Khau — a hinged amulet box of gold or silver worn at the throat, holding a relic or a written prayerYencho and diu — Bhutia earrings and bangles, often set with coral and turquoiseTilhari — the green glass-bead necklace with a gold cylinder worn by married Nepali-speaking womenNaugedi and kantha — bead and coin necklacesBulaki and dhungri — nose and ear ornamentsNamchok and lyak — Lepcha earrings and necklacesCoral, turquoise and amber strung whole rather than cut, traded up from the plains and down from Tibet