BharatSangraha

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Sikkim & Darjeeling Hills · Eastern Himalaya & Brahmaputra Belt

व्यंजन

Three kitchens sharing one pantry. The Bhutia and Tibetan-derived kitchen works in wheat flour, butter, pork fat and dried meat; the Nepali kitchen works in rice, dal, mustard oil and pounded achar; the Lepcha kitchen is the most forest-facing of the three, using nettle, fern, wild yam, bamboo shoot and fish from the Teesta. All three use the same ferments, and the boundaries have been porous for two centuries.

Momoམོག་མོགशाकाहारी और मांसाहारीEveryday and street

Steamed wheat-flour dumplings of minced pork, buff, chicken or vegetable, served with a thin bone broth on the side and a pounded dalle-and-tomato achar. The broth is not a garnish — it is the reason the dumpling is eaten without a curry. Pan-fried it becomes kothey; deep-fried, phaley.

कहाँ चखें: Kunga and the Gandhi Road Tibetan kitchens in Darjeeling; the MG Marg lanes in Gangtok.

Thukpa and thenthukशाकाहारी और मांसाहारीMain

A one-pot noodle soup — thukpa with drawn or cut noodles, thenthuk with dough torn into the broth by hand. It is the standard cold-weather meal above 1,500 m, built to be made from flour, a little meat and whatever green is in the house.

Gundruk ko jhol and gundruk sadekoशाकाहारीSide

The fermented leaf eaten two ways — simmered into a thin sour soup with potato and dried chilli, or soaked, squeezed dry and dressed raw with mustard oil, timmur, lemon and chopped dalle. The soup is winter food; the sadeko is the standard drinking accompaniment.

Sinki ko jholशाकाहारीSide

Pit-fermented radish boiled with potato, tomato and chilli into a sharply sour broth, drunk almost as a restorative. Distinctly more acidic than gundruk, and unmistakable by smell from the doorway.

Kinema curryशाकाहारीMain

Fermented soybean fried with onion, turmeric, chilli and tomato into a thick gravy eaten with rice. It is Limbu in origin and is the region's principal source of protein in villages that keep few animals.

PhagshapaमांसाहारीMain

Strips of pork belly with the fat left on, stewed with radish and whole dried red chillies and almost no other spice. A Bhutia dish, and a demonstration of the principle that above a certain altitude fat is the point.

Chhurpi soup and ningro-churpiशाकाहारीMain

Soft churpi cooked with fiddlehead fern (ningro), or churpi simmered alone into a thick, faintly sour stew. The fern is foraged from stream banks through the monsoon and the pairing is close to a regional signature.

Sel rotiशाकाहारीBread and festival

Rice soaked, ground to a batter, sweetened lightly, left to ferment overnight and piped in a ring into hot oil, where it puffs crisp outside and stays soft inside. Made in quantity at Tihar and Dasain, and kept for days without going stale — the ferment is what does that.

DhindoशाकाहारीStaple

Millet, maize or buckwheat flour stirred into boiling water to a stiff dough and eaten in pinched lumps with gundruk soup, dal or meat. A grain-efficient staple of the higher villages, and now also a deliberate marker of hill identity on restaurant menus.

Aloo dum, Darjeeling styleशाकाहारीStreet

Small potatoes simmered in a thin, dark, chilli-and-tomato gravy, served in a bowl with a spoon and eaten standing. Sold at every school gate and taxi stand on the ridge; sharper and thinner than any plains dum aloo.

Sha phaley and khapseशाकाहारी और मांसाहारीSnack and festival

Sha phaley is a meat-stuffed round of dough deep-fried until blistered; khapse are the twisted fried biscuits stacked in tall structures in Bhutia and Tibetan homes at Losar and taken down and eaten through the following weeks.

Gya khoमांसाहारीFeast

A Sikkimese hot-pot cooked at the table in a chimneyed brass or copper vessel with a charcoal core — meat, dried radish, glass noodles and greens in broth, added and eaten in rounds. A winter and celebration dish rather than an everyday one.

Sisnu ko jholशाकाहारीSide

Stinging nettle boiled with rice-flour thickening into a green soup. Eaten as much as medicine as food, and a reminder that a good part of this cuisine is foraged rather than farmed.

Dalle khursani ko acharशाकाहारीCondiment

The round chilli pounded raw with salt, or stuffed and pickled whole in mustard oil and brine. It carries the heat of the meal, and it sits on the side of the plate so each eater sets their own level.

मुख्य आहार

Rice with dal, and a vegetable in mustard oilDhindo of millet, maize or buckwheatGundruk or sinki soup through the winterMomo and thukpa as everyday town foodChurpi, fresh and hard

मिठाइयाँ

Sel rotiKhapseDresi — sweet saffron rice with butter and dried fruit, made at LosarKalimpong lollipop, a hand-rolled reduced-milk sweetKheer of rice or millet

स्ट्रीट फ़ूड

Momo with broth and dalle acharAloo dum in a bowlSadeko — anything, from chickpea to instant noodle, dressed with mustard oil, lemon, timmur and dalleSekuwa — skewered meat grilled over coalsThukpa and chowmein from ridge-side shacksSteamed maize and roast maize in season

पेय

Tongba — warm water poured over fermented whole millet in a wooden or bamboo vessel and drunk through a perforated bamboo straw, refilled several times from the same grainChhaang — the same jaanr fermentation served as a liquidRaksi — the distilled version, run off a household stillSuja — Tibetan-style churned butter and salt tea, drunk above the treelineDarjeeling tea, drunk here without milk far more often than visitors expectGinger, lemon and honey in the cold

Sikkim & Darjeeling Hills का खानपान — ख़ास व्यंजन, मुख्य आहार, मिठाइयाँ, स्ट्रीट फ़ूड और उन्हें कहाँ चखें। (14)