दुकानें और बाज़ार

The Moradabad brass workshopsMoradabad

Engraved and cast brassware, by weight

Buy from the workshop lanes rather than the export showrooms; the engraving is done freehand while the piece sits on a lac bed.

The Pilibhit flute makersPilibhit

Bamboo bansuri, tuned individually

Ask for the pitch you want; a good maker will finish and tune one to order in a few hours.

Rampur's wedding kitchensRampur

Taar korma, shab deg and adrak ka halwa

Rampuri cooking is a caterer's tradition more than a restaurant one — the best of it is cooked for weddings, by families who are booked months ahead.

The Amroha dholak mohallasAmroha

Dholak, naal and tabla shells

Whole streets of drum makers; the shells are turned locally and the skins fitted to order.

Moradabadi dal cartsMoradabad

Thin moong dal with raw onion and masala

An evening trade; the older carts sell one thing and close when it is gone.

The Sambhal horn workshopsSambhal

Horn and bone combs, handles and tableware

Bareilly's zari workshops and jhumka shopsBareilly

Zardozi embroidery, and the earrings the city is known for