पहनावा और वस्त्र
Nimar's contribution to Indian dress is a single cloth, and it is unusually well documented: the Maheshwari sari, established at Maheshwar under Ahilyabai Holkar's patronage in the later eighteenth century, when weavers were brought to the town to make a fabric fit to be given away. Everything else worn in the valley is the working dress of a hot, agricultural, part-Adivasi country — light cotton, unstitched drapes, and silver worn in weight because it is also savings.
क्या पहना जाता है
Maheshwari sariWomen
A light silk-and-cotton sari with a plain or striped body and a reversible border, so it can be worn from either side. The pallu characteristically carries five stripes — three coloured and two white — and the border motifs are named after the shapes they were taken from.
किस मौके पर: Formal, ceremonial and, increasingly, everyday
Lugda and choliWomen, rural
An unstitched cotton length draped over a fitted choli with an odhni across the head, in the same family as the Malwa and Rajasthan drape but in lighter cloth, because the valley is hotter.
किस मौके पर: Everyday
Dhoti, bandi and phetaMen
A short dhoti worn high for fieldwork, a sleeveless bandi and a tied head-cloth. The Marathi pheta appears in the towns that had a Holkar administration; the Nimadi tie is looser and flatter.
किस मौके पर: Everyday
Bhil, Bhilala and Barela dress of the slopesAdivasi communities of the Satpura and Vindhya flanks
Men in a short dhoti, waistcloth and turban, with mirror-worked jackets at Bhagoria; women in a short ghagra and odhni, with silver at the neck, waist, arms and ankles worn all at once at festivals.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and festival
Burhanpur cotton and zari-bordered wearAll
Burhanpur wove fine cotton for the Mughal court and exported it through Surat; what survives is a powerloom industry and a zari-bordered formal wardrobe in the town's older households.
किस मौके पर: Formal
बुनाई और कपड़े
Maheshwari sarees and fabricsजीआई टैगKhargone (Maheshwar)
A silk-warp, cotton-weft fabric woven on pit and frame looms at Maheshwar, with a reversible border worked so that neither face is the wrong side. Established under Ahilyabai Holkar's patronage in the eighteenth century, near-extinct by the 1970s, and revived from 1979 by the Rehwa Society, which now runs a weaving workshop of roughly a hundred and thirty weavers alongside a school and clinic. Registered as a geographical indication.
Burhanpur powerloom and zari clothBurhanpur
The residue of a Mughal-era fine-cotton and gold-thread industry that shipped through Surat. Burhanpur is now among the largest powerloom concentrations in the state, which is a different business on the same site.
Handloom cotton of the valley townsKhargone, Barwani
Everyday cotton yardage and gamchhas woven in the cotton-growing districts, largely displaced by mill cloth and surviving mainly where a cooperative kept the looms working.
गहने
Hansli — the rigid silver neck torque, worn heaviest in the Bhil and Barela householdsKandora — the silver waist chainBorla and rakhdi at the foreheadTodia and kadla — solid silver ankletsBajuband and armletsNose ornaments in the Nimadi and Bhil styles, distinctly different in size