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Mizo–Kuki–Chin Hills · Northeast Hill Massif

छोटी-छोटी बातें

  • A famine with a timetableMelocanna baccifera, the mautak bamboo that covers these hills, flowers gregariously about every forty-eight years, fruits heavily, seeds and dies. Rats breed on the seed, the population explodes, and when the seed is gone the rats move into the rice. The Mizoram forest department's own record of mautam famines reads 1815, 1863, 1911, 1959 and 2007 — a natural disaster that can be predicted a generation ahead, and a rare case of a botanical clock setting the rhythm of a region's history.
  • The smaller famine, eighteen years laterThingtam is the flowering of rawthing bamboo, which falls roughly eighteen years after a mautam. It produces the same rodent surge on a smaller seed crop, which is why the region has two named famine words rather than one and why the calendar of dread runs in a long-short pattern.
  • An alphabet with a date on itMizo was written down in 1894, when J. H. Lorrain and F. W. Savidge fixed it in a 25-letter Roman alphabet. A primer followed in 1896 and a journal in 1898. Because the spelling is nearly phonetic and the alphabet short, adults taught each other; two generations later Mizoram was returning literacy above 91 per cent, second in India only to Kerala. Very few cultures can name the year they became readable.
  • A cloth that begins a marriage and ends itThe puandum a woman brings into her marriage as part of her trousseau is, by custom, the cloth used to cover her husband's body when he dies. One textile, bought at one end of a life together and used at the other, and every household knows which one it is.
  • Status you buy by giving it awayThangchhuah was earned by hosting a fixed sequence of public feasts, or by taking a set list of animals. It conferred a distinctive puan, a seat in the village order, and in the older belief a passage to pialral. The logic runs the opposite way to accumulation — a man became important in proportion to what he had handed out.
  • The paradise is in another countryIn the pre-Christian cosmology, souls travelling to pialral passed Rih Dil. The lake lies about 22 km east of Champhai, across the Tiau in Myanmar's Chin State, which puts the central site of the old Mizo afterlife permanently outside India — the plainest illustration available of a region and a border that do not agree.
  • The instrument is the stageIn Cheraw the men clapping the bamboo poles are simultaneously the percussion, the choreography and the hazard. There is no drum setting the tempo — the poles are it, and a dancer who mistimes is caught. Aizawl put ten thousand seven hundred and thirty-six people on one ground doing it in March 2010 and took a Guinness record for the largest bamboo dance.
  • Bamboo as an entire material cultureFifty-seven per cent of Mizoram's area is under bamboo. It is the house frame, the floor, the wall, the water pipe, the fence, the carrying basket, the fish trap, the rain hat, the cooking vessel and — as young shoot, fresh, fermented or smoked — a substantial part of the diet. Almost no other Indian region rests this completely on a single plant.
  • A GI chilli and no masala at allMizo Chilli holds a geographical indication of its own, and it is the only spice the regional kitchen argues about. There is no ground spice blend anywhere in the tradition — the heat is delivered raw, on the side, in a pounded chutney, so the cooked food itself can stay mild enough for a child.
  • Wine at the far end of a bamboo forestHnahlan, a village in the Champhai hills, grows grapes on terraces and turns them into wine sold under the Zawlaidi label. It is a European crop in a Southeast Asian ecology, planted on ridges where the drainage is perfect precisely because nothing else will hold soil there.
  • The town that closes on SundayShops, offices and most transport in Aizawl shut on Sunday, which visitors discover the hard way. It is the most visible everyday consequence of a religious transformation that took about fifty years to complete and reorganised the week around it.
  • A gourd hung over the fireSa-um is made in a dried bottle gourd, the sa-um bur, hung above the hearth so the fermentation stays warm. The container is grown, not bought; when it cracks it is replaced from the garden. A whole flavour system rests on a vessel with no manufacturing cost.

Mizo–Kuki–Chin Hills की छोटी-छोटी स्थानीय बातें — रीति-रिवाज़, अनोखी आदतें और वे चीज़ें जो किसी गाइडबुक में नहीं मिलतीं। (12)