The Nathdwara bazaar sweet shopsNathdwara
Peda, thor, rabri and the seasonal temple sweets
The lanes around the temple gates hold several long-established mishthan bhandars and dairies whose hours still follow the darshan timings rather than the clock. Stock turns over when the temple's does, so what is on the counter in January is not what is there in May.
The Nathdwara painters' lanesNathdwara
Pichwai, both temple-scale cloth and small paper work
Workshops sit in the lanes behind the temple. Prices separate along a clear line — mineral pigment and hand drawing at one end, screen-printed and outlined cloth at the other — and the difference is visible in the reverse of the cloth.
Molela potters' villageMolela, Rajsamand
Hollow terracotta relief plaques of local deities
Bought at the source by the communities who install them, and increasingly by decorative buyers. Ask for the open-backed votive form rather than the sealed decorative panel if the older object is the point.
Bassi kaavad workshopsBassi, Chittorgarh
Hinged wooden portable shrines, and painted Gangaur and Isar heads
A handful of Suthar families still make them. A commissioned kaavad has the patron's own genealogy painted inside; the ones made for sale do not, and the difference is worth asking about.
Akola dabu printersAkola, Chittorgarh
Mud-resist indigo block print
The printing yards and the drying ground are on the river; buying there is how the resist can be checked.
SadhnaUdaipur
Tanka and appliqué hand stitching, sold by the enterprise that employs the women who make it
Set up under Seva Mandir to give rural and urban women in the Udaipur district paid work from a craft they already had. The point of buying here is the wage structure, which is published.
Jodhpur Misthan BhandarUdaipur (Bapu Bazaar)
Pyaaz kachori, dahi vada and mithai
A Udaipur institution despite the Jodhpur in the name; the queue at breakfast is the local one.
Natraj Dining HallUdaipur
An unlimited Rajasthani thali served in sequence rather than all at once
The dining-hall format — bench seating, servers circulating with buckets — is how most people in the region actually eat out, and it is a better guide to Mewari home cooking than any hotel kitchen.
The Rajsamand marble workshopsRajnagar and Kelwa, Rajsamand
Carved marble images, screens and architectural members
The carving yards line the highway. Much of the output goes to temple commissions well outside Rajasthan, and the quarry dust is a serious local health and water problem that the trade does not advertise.