BharatSangraha

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Marwar & the Thar · Arid Northwest

व्यंजन

A cuisine shaped by scarcity of water and of green vegetables. Dried beans, gram flour, millet and generous ghee do the work that vegetables do elsewhere; many dishes are designed to keep for days without refrigeration. The Rajput hunting kitchen and the Marwari vegetarian kitchen sit side by side and barely overlap.

Dal baati churmaशाकाहारीMain

Hard wheat balls baked in embers or an oven, cracked open and drowned in ghee, eaten with a five-lentil dal and sweet crushed churma. Baati keeps for days, which is exactly why it exists.

कहाँ चखें: Anywhere, but the version cooked over cow-dung cakes at a village dhaba is the real one.

Laal maasमांसाहारी

Mutton cooked in a fiery red gravy of Mathania chillies, yoghurt and garlic. The colour is chilli, not tomato, and the heat is the dish. A Rajput hunting-camp preparation.

कहाँ चखें: Jodhpur and the Mewar region.

Gatte ki sabziशाकाहारी

Gram-flour dumplings steamed, sliced and simmered in a spiced yoghurt gravy. Invented for a place with no fresh vegetables and no way to keep them.

Ker sangriशाकाहारी

The desert on a plate — sun-dried ker berries and sangri beans from the khejri tree, rehydrated and cooked with dried red chilli, amchur and plenty of oil. Both ingredients grow wild and are gathered, not farmed.

कहाँ चखें: Jodhpur, Barmer and Jaisalmer.

Pyaaz kachoriशाकाहारीSnack

A flaky fried pastry filled with spiced onion, cracked open and topped with chutney. Jodhpur's is the reference version and it is eaten for breakfast.

कहाँ चखें: Rawat Mishthan Bhandar, Jaipur; Janta Sweet Home and the Sardar Market lanes, Jodhpur.

Mirchi vadaशाकाहारीSnack

A whole large green chilli stuffed with spiced potato, dipped in gram-flour batter and fried. Less hot than it looks, and eaten with a bread roll in Jodhpur.

GhevarशाकाहारीSweet

A disc of batter poured into hot ghee so it sets as a honeycomb, then soaked in syrup and topped with rabri. Made and eaten mainly around Teej and Raksha Bandhan.

कहाँ चखें: Johari Bazaar, Jaipur, in Sawan.

Mawa kachoriशाकाहारीSweet

A kachori shell filled with khoya, dry fruit and cardamom, fried and dipped in sugar syrup. Jodhpur's contribution to sweets.

Bajre ki roti with lehsun ki chutneyशाकाहारी

Millet flatbread slapped out by hand, eaten with a coarse garlic-and-red-chilli chutney and white butter. The everyday village meal across the west.

Safed maasमांसाहारी

The pale opposite of laal maas — mutton in a white gravy of cashew, almond, curd and coconut, with no chilli powder at all. A palace kitchen dish.

Papad ki sabziशाकाहारी

A curry made from broken papad in a besan-and-yoghurt gravy, cooked in fifteen minutes when there is nothing else in the house.

Makhaniya lassiशाकाहारीDrink

Thick saffron-and-cardamom lassi topped with a slab of cream and crushed ice, served in a clay tumbler.

कहाँ चखें: Shri Mishrilal Hotel, Sardar Market, Jodhpur.

मुख्य आहार

Bajra (pearl millet)JowarMaizeBesan (gram flour)GheeMoth and moong beansMathania red chilliDried ker and sangriAmchur

मिठाइयाँ

GhevarMawa kachoriFeeniChurma ladduBalushahiAlwar ka mawaMalpuaRabdiGajak

स्ट्रीट फ़ूड

Pyaaz kachoriMirchi vadaKota kachoriDal ki pooriBikaneri bhujiaGhewarKalakand

पेय

Makhaniya lassiChaachKesar thandaiJal jeeraMasala chai

Marwar & the Thar का खानपान — ख़ास व्यंजन, मुख्य आहार, मिठाइयाँ, स्ट्रीट फ़ूड और उन्हें कहाँ चखें। (12)