BharatSangraha

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Malnad · Deccan Inland Plateau

व्यंजन

Two kitchens that share a mountain and very little else. The Malnad Kannada kitchen — Havyaka, Gowda and others — is largely vegetarian, rice-based, coconut-heavy and built around what the garden and the forest give in each month. The Kodava kitchen is meat-forward, uses pork as its centre, avoids coconut in its signature dishes and sours with kachampuli. A traveller who eats only one of them has not eaten in Malnad.

Akki rottiಅಕ್ಕಿ ರೊಟ್ಟಿशाकाहारीBreakfast

Rice-flour dough patted out by hand directly onto a hot tawa, usually with grated coconut, onion, dill or cucumber worked in. The Malnad version is thicker and softer than the maidan one and is eaten with a spoonful of ghee and chutney.

KadubuशाकाहारीBreakfast

Steamed rice dumplings, plain or with a jaggery-and-coconut filling, cooked in a covered pot or inside folded leaves. The jackfruit-leaf cup version is shared with the coast below, where it belongs as much as it does here.

TambuliशाकाहारीStarter

Cold buttermilk carrying a pounded raw leaf or root — doddapatre, brahmi, curry leaf, pepper, ginger, or the bark of a garden tree. Different households keep different plants and will explain what each is for. Eaten first, before anything hot.

Menasina saaruशाकाहारीMain

A thin, hot broth built on crushed black pepper, cumin, garlic and tamarind and poured over rice. In a region where pepper is a field crop and the monsoon lasts four months, it is medicine that happens to be dinner.

Kanile palya and kanile gasiशाकाहारीMain

Bamboo shoot, leached and brined, cooked either dry with coconut or in a coconut gravy. It appears with the first rains and is one of the few genuinely seasonal foods left that cannot be bought out of season.

Halasina kayi palyaशाकाहारीMain

Tender green jackfruit cut down, boiled and cooked with coconut and a light spice paste — a vegetable with the texture of meat, and the reason a Malnad household plants a jackfruit tree before it plants anything ornamental.

Halasina happala and genasaleशाकाहारीPreserve

Ripe jackfruit pulp cooked down with jaggery and spread thin on mats to dry into dark, chewy sheets, and thinner rounds dried into wafers that are fried before eating. Both keep for a year and are the standard gift from a Malnad house.

TodadevuशाकाहारीSweet

A layered Malnad sweet of jaggery and flour, folded and fried so it comes out crisp and separates into leaves. Made in a small number of households, sold in a small number of shops, and effectively unknown outside the region.

Majjige huliशाकाहारीMain

Vegetables in a mild coconut-and-buttermilk gravy, thickened but never boiled hard, because boiling splits the curd. Ash gourd, cucumber or colocasia stem are the usual bodies.

Pandi curryಪಂದಿ ಕರಿमांसाहारीMain

Kodagu's defining dish — pork cooked with its fat in a dry-roasted paste of pepper, coriander, cumin and chilli, with no coconut at all, finished with a spoonful of kachampuli that turns the gravy almost black and sharpens it in a way no other souring agent does. Eaten with kadambuttu or akki otti.

Akki ottiशाकाहारीBread

A soft, pale rice flatbread patted out by hand, the standard Kodava accompaniment to a meat curry. It is deliberately bland, because everything else on the plate is not.

KadambuttuशाकाहारीStaple

Steamed balls of coarse rice, dense and slightly chewy, made to be broken into gravy. The size and the grind are both fixed by convention and are argued about.

PaputtuशाकाहारीBreakfast

A steamed cake of rice, milk and grated coconut, cut into squares and eaten with honey, with a meat curry, or with both. Kodagu's breakfast, and among the few Indian rice cakes made with milk.

NoolputtuशाकाहारीStaple

Rice string hoppers pressed through a mould and steamed, eaten with chicken curry or with coconut milk and honey. The same object as the Malayali idiyappam, arrived over the same mountain.

Baimbale curryशाकाहारीMain

The Kodava bamboo shoot dish — leached shoot cooked with the household spice paste, sometimes with pork. Made only in the first weeks of the monsoon, when the shoots are young enough to cut.

Kumm curryशाकाहारीMain

Wild mushrooms gathered after the first heavy rain and cooked the same day in a light spice paste. The knowledge of which mushrooms is household knowledge, held by particular people rather than written down, and the season lasts a matter of days.

मुख्य आहार

Rice, including red rice landracesJackfruit, green and ripeCoconut and coconut oilPepper, from the gardenCurd and buttermilkRice-flour breads and steamed rice staples in Kodagu

मिठाइयाँ

TodadevuHalasina hannina kadubu and genasaleKayi holigeAkki payasa and halasina hannina payasaHoney from forest combs, eaten with paputtu

स्ट्रीट फ़ूड

Fried jackfruit chips, sold by weight at every ghat pull-offHalasina happala fried to orderGoli baje and neer dose in the town hotelsCoffee from estate stores and roadside shacks on the ghat roads

पेय

Estate coffee, drunk with milk and often over-sweetened at homeKashaya — a pepper, jaggery and spice decoction taken against damp and coldButtermilk with curry leaf and gingerKokum and bimbli sharbat in the hot monthsToddy in the areca and palm villages

Malnad का खानपान — ख़ास व्यंजन, मुख्य आहार, मिठाइयाँ, स्ट्रीट फ़ूड और उन्हें कहाँ चखें। (16)