पहनावा और वस्त्र
Ladakhi dress is built for a twenty-degree swing between afternoon and dawn and for carrying things without a bag. The goncha is belted so that the chest above the sash becomes a pocket deep enough for a bowl, a lump of chhurpi and a length of rope; the sleeves are cut long so they can be pulled over the hands or shed off the shoulder when the sun comes out. Wool is local and hand-woven; the ornament is turquoise, coral and silver, and it is inherited rather than bought. The one garment that is unmistakably Ladakhi and nothing else is the perak.
क्या पहना जाता है
Goncha (kos)Men and women
A long woollen robe wrapped across the front and tied at the waist with a sash, the skerag. The fold above the sash is the working pocket. Men's versions are shorter and belted higher for walking; women's are longer and worn with a coloured apron-like overlay on formal occasions.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and formal
SulmaWomen
The woman's version of the robe, gathered into pleats at the back, worn with the perak, the lokpa and a brocade waistcoat on festival days.
किस मौके पर: Formal and festival
PerakMarried women
A stiffened leather or cloth band worn over the head and down the back, set with rows of turquoise and coral and often with a silver amulet box. It is passed from mother to eldest daughter-in-law, and the number of rows of turquoise is read as a statement of the household's standing and history. A heavy perak represents several generations of accumulation and is a form of family capital, not decoration.
किस मौके पर: Festivals, weddings, and formerly daily
LokpaWomen
A cape of sheepskin or goatskin worn over the back with the fleece inward, which insulates the spine, protects the robe when carrying loads, and serves as a seat on cold ground.
किस मौके पर: Everyday in villages, and festivals
TibiMen and women
The Ladakhi hat with upturned wing-like brims, made in wool or brocade. Its shape is what distinguishes a Ladakhi crowd from a Tibetan one at a distance.
किस मौके पर: Formal
PapuMen and women
Knee-high boots with soles of yak hide, uppers of felted wool or nambu, and upturned toes, held with woven garters. Made without a hard last, so they are shaped by wear and can be re-soled indefinitely.
किस मौके पर: Winter and ceremonial
Changpa herding dressThe Changthang pastoralists
Heavy sheepskin robes worn fleece-inward with the skin outside, worn year-round, and worked soft by hand. The Changpa dress for a wind that does not stop rather than for a season.
किस मौके पर: Everyday, above 4,000 m
Monastic robesMonks and nuns
The maroon shemdap, upper robe and sleeveless vest of the Tibetan monastic orders, with the yellow crested hat of the Gelug and the distinct headgear of the Drukpa Kagyu worn on ceremonial occasions.
किस मौके पर: Everyday
बुनाई और कपड़े
Raw pashm from the Changthangi goatChangthang — Rupshu, Kharnak, Korzok, and the eastern plateau
The undercoat that the goat grows against a winter at 4,500 m and sheds in spring. It is combed out by hand, not shorn, so the long coarse guard hair stays on the animal; the fibre is around 12–15 microns and a goat yields a few hundred grams of raw pashm, roughly halved again by dehairing. Almost all of it leaves the region unspun. The geographical indication that governs the finished cloth is a Kashmir one, attached to spinning and weaving rather than to the herd.
NambuThroughout, particularly Zanskar and Sham
Hand-woven sheep-wool cloth, made on a narrow backstrap or frame loom in strips a hand's width or two wide, then seamed into robes and blankets. The narrow strip is a portable loom's constraint, and the seams down a goncha are the sign of a hand-woven one.
ThigmaLeh and the Indus valley
Resist tie-dye on nambu: the cloth is bound at points with thread before dyeing so it comes out in concentric rings and diamonds, in madder, walnut and indigo-derived colours. Used for shawls, robe linings and the ceremonial cloths hung at weddings.
Yak-hair tent clothChangthang
The rebo, the black tent, is woven from yak hair in loose strips and sewn together. The weave is deliberately open, so smoke from the hearth escapes; when it rains or snows the hair swells and the cloth closes itself. It is a fabric engineered to change porosity with the weather.
गहने
Perak, set with turquoise and coralGau — the silver or copper amulet box worn on a cord, holding a written charm or a relicTurquoise and coral necklaces, valued by the size and the blue of the individual stoneSilver ear ornaments and hair ornaments, often Chiling-madeConch-shell banglesPrayer beads carried and counted in the hand rather than worn