पहनावा और वस्त्र
The Kumaoni marker is not a garment but a piece of cloth and a set of gold. The rangwali pichhora — a yellow ground with a red central device — is drawn or printed for a married woman and worn at every rite that matters, and the nath, the large gold nose ring, is the single most expensive object most hill households own. Above the crest the wardrobe changes entirely to Bhotiya wool, and below it in the bhabar the dress is plains dress.
क्या पहना जाता है
Rangwali pichhoraMarried women
A large cloth dyed yellow with turmeric, marked with a red roundel at the centre and filled with concentric motifs — swastika, conch, bell, sun — drawn in the same visual grammar as aipan. It is thrown over the head and shoulders, and its presence tells you the occasion is auspicious before anyone speaks.
किस मौके पर: Weddings, namkaran, deity festivals, every auspicious rite
Ghagra and angadiWomen
A gathered skirt with a fitted upper garment and a head cloth, in cotton for summer and coarse wool for winter. Now largely worn by older women and at ritual occasions, having been displaced by the salwar kameez and the saree.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and ceremonial
Pankhi and thulmaMen and women
The woven woollen shoulder wrap and the thick napped blanket — the two objects that make an unheated stone house survivable, and both originally Bhotiya trade goods traded down the valleys.
किस मौके पर: Winter, everyday
Bhotiya coat, boots and capShauka and Rung communities
Heavy woollen coats, woven sashes and knee-high boots with hide or plaited-wool soles, cut on a Tibetan rather than an Indian pattern — a wardrobe assembled for snow and for walking loaded.
किस मौके पर: Everyday above 3,000 m
Topi and kurta-pyjamaMen
A woollen cap with kurta and churidar in the hills; the black cap became a marker during the statehood agitation of the 1990s and stayed one.
किस मौके पर: Everyday
बुनाई और कपड़े
Thulma and pankhiPithoragarh (Munsiyari, Dharchula), Bageshwar
Sheep wool spun on a drop spindle and woven in narrow strips on a backstrap or pit loom, then joined. The thulma is thick and heavily napped for bedding; the pankhi is finer and worn. Both were trade goods before they were craft products.
Dan and chutkaPithoragarh (Johar, Darma, Byans)
Bhotiya floor rugs and pile carpets in strong geometric registers, woven from local wool with natural and, more recently, chemical dyes. Motifs are shared with the Tibetan plateau, which is where the design vocabulary came over the passes with everything else.
Rangwali pichhora clothAlmora, Nainital, Pithoragarh
Traditionally drawn by hand on plain cloth with turmeric and red pigment for a specific woman and a specific occasion; now mostly screen-printed and sold ready-made, with the hand-drawn version surviving in conservative households and in revival work.
Munsiyari and Johar woolPithoragarh
The wool of the high-valley flocks, historically supplemented by pashmina and raw wool brought over the passes from Tibet. When the passes closed the raw material supply halved overnight, and weavers turned to mill yarn brought up from the plains.
गहने
Nath — the large gold nose ring, its diameter and weight a statement of household standingGuloband — gold plaques stitched to a velvet band worn tight at the throatHansuli — a rigid silver or gold torqueChareu and paunji — heavy silver ankletsMurkhli, kundal and bali — ear ornamentsPauncha and dhagula — wrist ornaments in silver