BharatSangraha

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Kumaon · Western Himalaya & Trans-Himalaya

व्यंजन

A daily plate of millet roti, one pulse and one green, and a ceremonial plate of rice, singal, ghee and jaggery that appears at weddings and deity festivals. The two Kumaoni foods that everyone outside the region has heard of — bal mithai and singori — are both Almora bazaar sweets rather than village cooking, which is a fair description of how the region reaches the outside world.

Bhatt ki churkaniभट्ट की चुड़कानीशाकाहारीMain

Black soybean roasted until it splits, then simmered with a slurry of rice or wheat flour into a thick dark dish eaten with rice. Chudkani is the coarse version and dubke the wet-ground one; households are firm about which they make and mildly rude about the other.

DubkeडुबकेशाकाहारीMain

Black gram or black soybean soaked, ground wet on a stone and simmered with jakhiya and asafoetida into a smooth, heavy dal. Eaten over rice with a spoon of ghee, and unambiguously winter food.

Gahat ki dal and gahat ke parantheगहतशाकाहारीMain

Horse gram cooked thin and dark, or ground and stuffed into a paratha. It is a winter pulse credited in household practice with breaking kidney stones — a belief widespread enough that the crop is grown partly for it.

Aloo ke gutkeआलू के गुटकेशाकाहारीEveryday

Boiled potato in thumb-sized pieces tossed in mustard oil with jakhiya, red chilli and coriander seed, and eaten with bhang ki chutney. The default breakfast, travel food and guest food of the hills.

Bhang ki chutneyभांग की चटनीशाकाहारीAccompaniment

Hemp seed roasted and ground on a stone with lemon, green chilli and salt. The seed carries no intoxicant; the plant is a field-margin weed and the seed is gathered rather than farmed.

Pisyun loonपिस्यूँ लूणशाकाहारीAccompaniment

Salt pounded with garlic, chilli, turmeric and one of several herbs or seeds into an oily green or ochre paste. Every household makes a slightly different version, and a good one is a reason to visit a particular aunt.

KappaकापाशाकाहारीMain

Green leaves boiled, chopped and set with a slurry of ground rice, then tempered — the Kumaoni counterpart of Garhwal's kafuli, made from the same logic with a different name and a slightly thinner finish.

JholiझोलीशाकाहारीMain

Buttermilk turned with gram flour and turmeric and tempered with jakhiya, fenugreek and asafoetida. The everyday sauce, made from what remains after the butter has been churned out.

Bhaddu ka rajmaशाकाहारीMain

Small hill rajma cooked in a lidded bronze bhaddu over embers for hours until the skins go soft and the liquor thickens by itself. The Munsiyari and Harshil beans are the ones people ask for by name.

Sisunak saagसिसूणशाकाहारीMain

Stinging nettle cut young, boiled to disarm it and cooked as a green or a thin soup. Free, abundant and, once cooked, one of the more nutritious things growing on a Kumaoni field boundary.

SingalसिंगलशाकाहारीSweet

A batter of semolina or rice flour with curd and banana, piped into hot oil in a ring or a horn and fried. A festival and fair sweet rather than an everyday one.

Bal mithaiशाकाहारीSweet

Khoya cooked down until it darkens and caramelises into a fudge, cut into cubes and rolled in tiny white sugar balls. It is an Almora bazaar invention, and its keeping quality is why it is the sweet that leaves the region.

कहाँ चखें: Lala Bazar and the Mall in Almora.

Singoriसिंगोड़ीशाकाहारीSweet

Sweetened khoya, often with coconut, set in a cone of fresh malu leaf, which scents it as it cools. It keeps for a day or two at most, which is why it stayed a local sweet while bal mithai travelled.

कहाँ चखें: Almora, made fresh and sold the same day.

GhughuteशाकाहारीFestival food

Wheat-flour dough figures — birds, drums, pomegranates — deep-fried and strung with an orange into a necklace for children at Uttarayani, who then call the crows to eat them.

Buckwheat and barley roti of the high valleysफाफरशाकाहारीEveryday

Above 2,500 m the flour changes. Buckwheat, barley and amaranth roti eaten with dried greens, chhurpi-type hard cheese and butter tea in the Rung and Shauka valleys — a Tibetan-facing plate on the Indian side of the crest.

Festival and sacrificial meatमांसाहारीMain

Goat at deity festivals and weddings, cooked in an iron kadhai with jakhiya, turmeric, chilli and a great deal of garlic, and distributed by household share. In the high valleys meat is also dried in the cold and kept through the winter.

मुख्य आहार

Mandua and jhangora rotiRice on the talaun terracesBhatt and gahatButtermilk and pisyun loonWild and cultivated greens

मिठाइयाँ

Bal mithaiSingoriSingalJhangore ki kheerKhaja and gulgula at fairs

स्ट्रीट फ़ूड

Aloo ke gutke with bhang chutney at every bus standBal mithai and singori in AlmoraSingal and jalebi at the Uttarayani and Nanda Devi fairsMomos, now universal in every hill town and unarguably a recent arrival

पेय

Buransh — rhododendron flower juice, pressed in springButtermilkSalted butter tea in the Bhotiya valleysJaan, the fermented millet or rice brew of the high valleys

Kumaon का खानपान — ख़ास व्यंजन, मुख्य आहार, मिठाइयाँ, स्ट्रीट फ़ूड और उन्हें कहाँ चखें। (16)