BharatSangraha

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Khandesh · Deccan Inland Plateau

पहनावा और वस्त्र

Khandesh grows cotton and does not weave it. The valley's lint has left as raw bales and ginned cotton since the 1860s, which is why the region has ginning presses, oil mills and a railway junction but no handloom tradition of the rank of Paithani in Marathwada or Ilkal across the Karnataka line. What it has instead is a jewellery trade — Jalgaon is one of India's larger gold retail markets — and, on the Satpura slope, a Bhil and Pawra dress that is closer to Nimar and Gujarat than to anything Marathi.

क्या पहना जाता है

Lugda and nauvariWomen, valley households

The nine-yard drape is worn here as across Marathi-speaking country, but Ahirani-speaking households commonly call it lugda and older women wear it with the pallu drawn over the head against the sun and dust, which the plateau drape does less.

किस मौके पर: Everyday and ritual

Ghagra, choli and odhniBhil and Pawra women on the Satpura slope

A gathered skirt, short blouse and shoulder cloth in printed cotton, worn with heavy silver at the neck, wrist and ankle. It reads as western and northern — towards Nimar and the Gujarat hills — rather than towards the Marathi plateau, which is one of the clearest visual signals of where this region's affiliations lie.

किस मौके पर: Everyday, and heavily at Holi

Dhoti, bandi and phetaMen

Dhoti with a short buttoned jacket and a tied pheta or a Gandhi cap. The white cap is very widely worn by older men across the valley, a legacy of the Congress and Sarvodaya organising that Sane Guruji and others did from Amalner.

किस मौके पर: Everyday and festival

Bhil and Pawra festival dressMen, at Holi and at fairs

Turban with peacock feathers, a waist sash hung with bells, and silver ornament, worn for the Gher dance that runs for days around Holi on the Satpura slope.

किस मौके पर: Holi, Bhagoria-type fairs, Gher dancing

बुनाई और कपड़े

Khandesh cotton, unwovenJalgaon, Dhule, Nandurbar

The region is a major raw-cotton producer with a dense concentration of ginning and pressing factories dating from the nineteenth-century cotton boom, and almost no weaving. The lint has always left — for Bombay, Surat and later for mills elsewhere — which is the single reason Khandesh has no textile craft to its name.

Bhil and Pawra beadwork and silverNandurbar, Dhule

Beaded neckwork and heavy cast silver — hansli collars, thick anklets and coin necklaces — made by local smiths for the hill communities, and part of a material culture continuous across the Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat lines.

Kurdai and papad, a courtyard industryJalgaon, Dhule

Not a textile, but the region's actual cottage manufacture — wheat-starch kurdai and lentil papad dried on cloth in the pre-monsoon sun by women's groups and sold through the year. It occupies the economic niche that weaving occupies elsewhere.

गहने

Gold ornament from the Jalgaon market, which supplies buyers from across northern MaharashtraThushi and borla, worn as across Marathi countryBhil and Pawra silver — hansli, kadi anklets, coin necklaces and heavy nose ringsGlass and lac bangles from the fair grounds

Khandesh का पारंपरिक पहनावा — कपड़े, हथकरघा बुनाई, जीआई टैग वाले वस्त्र और गहने। (7)