पहनावा और वस्त्र
Dress here is a wool problem before it is an aesthetic one. The valley floor wears cotton for eight months and the slope wears wool for twelve, and almost every distinctive garment in the region is a solution to carrying warmth without carrying weight — a wrap that doubles as a blanket, a coat with no buttons, a rope belt that is also a rope. The embroidered silk rumal that people associate with these hills belongs to Chamba, over the crest, and is not made here.
क्या पहना जाता है
PattuWomen
A rectangle of coarse home-spun wool worn over the salwar-kameez, taken under one arm, brought over both shoulders and pinned there with a pair of silver brooches, then belted at the waist with a sash. It is a blanket, a coat and a carrying cloth at once, and its edge stripes identify the weaving village.
किस मौके पर: Everyday in the upper villages, ceremonial lower down
Chola and doraGaddi men
A long undyed woollen coat worn over churidar, cinched by the dora — a black woollen rope some fifty to sixty feet long, wound many times round the waist. The dora is not decoration. Unwound, it tethers animals, lowers loads down a slope and secures a bundle, and the coils themselves are where a shepherd stores small things.
किस मौके पर: Everyday, and the migration
LuanchariGaddi women
A fitted bodice joined at the waist to a very full gathered skirt, worn with a dhatu head-cloth and a heavy silver load. It reads as a single garment but is cut and joined as two.
किस मौके पर: Festivals and weddings
DhatuWomen
A square cloth folded to a triangle and knotted at the back of the head. It keeps sun and rain off, cushions a headload, and marks married status in most of the upper villages.
किस मौके पर: Everyday
Himachali topiMen
A flat-topped woollen cap with an upturned band. The Kangri form is plain or lightly bordered; the boldly patterned band belongs to Kullu and is read across Himachal as a Kullu marker rather than a Kangra one.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and formal
बुनाई और कपड़े
Kangra and Chamba pattuKangra, and the Dhauladhar villages
Plain-weave woollen wrap cloth in undyed and vegetable-dyed yarn with narrow banded borders, woven on pit and frame looms from local sheep wool. It is a household textile rather than a market one, which is why it has never had the commercial identity that the Kullu shawl built.
Gaddi woollensDhauladhar slope and the Chamba approaches
Coarse blanket, coat and rope cloth spun and woven by the transhumant households themselves from the fleece of their own flocks, waulked to felt the surface so it sheds rain.
Tibetan carpet weavingDharamshala and the exile settlements
Hand-knotted wool carpets on the Tibetan senna-loop knot, an industry rebuilt in exile after 1960 as a livelihood scheme and now one of the settlements' main craft exports.
गहने
Chak — a large chased silver disc worn on the head by Gaddi womenPaired silver brooches for pinning the pattu at the shouldersChandanhaar — layered silver chain necklaceBoomni and balu, the nose ornamentsToke and kangan — heavy silver wrist bandsPazeb and silver toe rings