BharatSangraha

इस क्षेत्र का अनुवाद अभी इस भाषा में नहीं हुआ है, इसलिए यह अंग्रेज़ी में दिखाया जा रहा है।

Dhundhar & Shekhawati · Arid Northwest

पहनावा और वस्त्र

Jaipur is where Rajasthani dress became a trade rather than only a practice. The city's printers, dyers, enamellers and bangle-makers were settled by street under the 1727 plan and have stayed there, so the odhni, the razai and the lac bangle are all things you can watch being made a few hundred metres apart. In Shekhawati the signal is different: the merchant household dressed conservatively and put its display into the building instead, which is why the frescoes show more jewellery than the streets ever did.

क्या पहना जाता है

Jaipuri pagriMen

Tied to a high point at the front, in contrast to the flat wide Jodhpuri safa and the low checked Mewari one. Pink is the Jaipur wedding colour and is worn by the groom's party; saffron and multicolour leheriya appear at Teej and Gangaur.

किस मौके पर: Weddings, festivals, formal occasions

Ghagra, kanchli and odhniWomen

A gathered skirt, a fitted bodice and a veil. What is read off it here is the dye and the print — a leheriya odhni in the monsoon, a bandhani for a wedding, a plain block print for every day — and the Sanganeri and Bagru printers supply the whole vocabulary.

किस मौके पर: Everyday and festive

Atamsukh and angarkhaMen

The side-tied coat and its quilted winter form. Jaipur's version is closely associated with the court portraits of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and is still made by the old tailoring shops for wedding wear.

किस मौके पर: Winter and ceremonial

The Shekhawati seth's dressMerchant households

A white dhoti or churidar, a plain kurta or bandi, and a small turban — deliberately unshowy. The Marwari merchant's public dress was a statement of creditworthiness rather than of wealth, and the frescoed frontage of the house did the display instead.

किस मौके पर: Everyday and business

Jaipuri razaiEveryone, in winter

A cotton quilt filled with hand-teased cotton, made thin enough to fold into a small square and still warm because the fibre is opened rather than packed. A Jaipur trade in its own right, sold by weight of filling.

किस मौके पर: Winter

बुनाई और कपड़े

Sanganeri hand block printजीआई टैगJaipur (Sanganer)

Fine floral and butti printing on a white or pale ground, with the design carried by outline blocks and small filler blocks in sequence. The delicacy is possible because Sanganer's water was soft; the trade settled there for that reason and not for any other.

Bagru hand block printजीआई टैगJaipur (Bagru)

Printing on a harda-treated ivory ground using dabu mud resist with indigo and madder, in bolder and more geometric motifs than Sanganer's. The Chhipa printers work in a single quarter of the village and dry the cloth on open ground beside it.

Bandhani and leheriyaJaipur, Sikar

Tie-resist dyeing — thousands of points tied off by hand for bandhani, the cloth rolled into a rope and bound at intervals for leheriya's diagonal stripe. Jaipur's leheriya is a monsoon and Teej cloth, and the five-colour panchranga version is specific to the city. The Geographical Indication registered in 2023 covers Jodhpur's bandhej rather than the work done here.

Gota pattiJaipur

Flat metallic ribbon cut into shapes and applied to cloth with a running stitch, so the ornament sits on the surface rather than being embroidered into it. Far cheaper than zardozi to make and far quicker, which is why it spread from court dress to ordinary wedding wear.

गहने

Rakhdi or borla, worn at the centre of the foreheadAad and timaniya at the throatBajuband on the upper armLac bangles, sized to the wrist over a flame while the buyer waitsKundan-meena sets, enamelled on the reverse so the back is as finished as the frontSilver anklets and kandora, worn heavier away from the city

Dhundhar & Shekhawati का पारंपरिक पहनावा — कपड़े, हथकरघा बुनाई, जीआई टैग वाले वस्त्र और गहने। (9)