BharatSangraha

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Chhattisgarh Plains · Central Highlands & Forest Belt

खानपान पद्धति

Rice is not one ingredient here, it is a grammar. A household distinguishes grain by variety, by soil class, by cooking time and by treatment, and eats a coarse fast landrace on a working day, a scented one at a feast, and yesterday's rice as a drink at dawn. Around that the kitchen is deliberately plain: very little fat, no garam masala tradition, no onion-and-tomato base in the older cooking, and a vegetable repertoire made mostly of foraged greens with fortnight-long seasons. What it does have is fermentation and steaming, and it uses both on rice.

मुख्य पाक माध्यम

Mustard oil in the northern beltTil (sesame) oil, the older everyday fatGroundnut oil, which has largely displaced bothGhee at ritual feasts, on sohari and in the temple kitchen, and almost nowhere else

प्रमुख खट्टे तत्व

The lactic sourness that basi generates in its own water overnight — the region's most-used acid, and the only one that costs nothingTamarindAmchur, dried from wild mangoKhatta bhaji, the sour leaf, and ambadiCurd, and lemon in the townsTomato, which is recent and still absent from most feast cooking

मसाले की पहचान

Very restrained by plains standards. Salt, green or dried red chilli, raw pounded garlic, turmeric, a little coriander, and mustard or cumin in the tempering. Against Odisha to the east there is no panch phutana habit; against Bastar to the south there is almost none of the wild herb and none of the ant; against the Wainganga side of Vidarbha to the west there is nothing like saoji heat. The distinguishing flavour of the region is sour and mild, not hot, which surprises people who expect central India to be fierce.

मुख्य अनाज

Rice, in the varieties the region is actually known by — Dubraj, Vishnubhog, Jeeraphool, Safri, Badshah Bhog, Luchai, Samundchini, Nagkesar, Kali Kamod, GurmatiaKodo and kutki on the western and northern fringesUrad and chana, grown chiefly to be dried into badi and steamed into bafauriWheat, mostly bought rather than grown, and reserved for ritual bread

संरक्षण की विधियाँ

Badi and bijori, sun-dried through the hot monthsRakhia badi from ash gourd, the household's summer projectAmchur and tamarind blocksUsna — parboiled rice, stored in mud kothi bins built into the house wallDried fish from the village tanks, salted and roof-driedBasi itself, which is preservation performed daily rather than seasonally

विशिष्ट पाक विधियाँ

Basi and borey — rice held under water

Cooked rice is covered with water in an earthen or steel pot and left overnight. Wild lactic fermentation turns the water faintly sour and slightly effervescent and softens the grain. At dawn it is salted and eaten with raw onion, green chilli and a pickle or a dried fish, and the water is drunk as much as the rice is eaten. Borey is the same thing made with fresh water and eaten at once; basi is the overnight one. It solves three problems together — it keeps cooked rice safe in forty-five-degree heat without fuel, it rehydrates and salts a body about to go into the sun, and it wastes nothing.

यह भी यहाँ मिलती है: Utkal, Bengal Delta, Brahmaputra Valley, Bastar, Koraput–Kalahandi Uplands

Leaf-baked breads

Rice-flour dough is patted flat, wrapped in a sal or palash leaf and baked directly in embers — anga is the ember, and angakar roti takes its name from it. The leaf supplies steam so the bread does not dry, scents it, and makes any fat unnecessary. No griddle, no oil, no pan to wash.

यह भी यहाँ मिलती है: Bastar, Mahakoshal & Gondwana

Steaming rice dough

The plain's default treatment of rice dough is steam, not fry. Fara is rolled into short fingers and steamed, then tempered with mustard and curry leaf; muthia is squeezed in the fist — muthi — so it keeps the maker's finger marks, and steamed the same way. It produces a filling dish out of flour, water and almost no fuel.

यह भी यहाँ मिलती है: Utkal, Bastar

Sun-dried badi and bijori

Ground urad, or grated ash gourd worked into a paste, is dropped in small mounds onto cloth on a roof and dried hard through April and May. Fried and simmered months later it becomes the protein of the monsoon, when nothing green is safe to buy and the fields take all the labour. It is a summer job done for a wet-season problem.

यह भी यहाँ मिलती है: Bundelkhand, Bagelkhand, Utkal

Foraged greens as a calendar

Several dozen named bhaji are eaten in strict sequence — charota with the first rains, koliyari from the bauhinia, then chench, bohar, munga, amari, lakhdi. Each has a season of a fortnight or so, and a household knows which is coming next. The kitchen's vocabulary for greens is far larger than its vocabulary for spices, which is the clearest single statement of what this food is about.

यह भी यहाँ मिलती है: Bastar, Mahakoshal & Gondwana, Chota Nagpur Plateau

Fermented rice batter for sweets

Soaked rice is ground and the batter left to sour for a day before being shaped, deep-fried and soaked in jaggery syrup. In dehrori the sourness of the batter is what keeps the finished sweet from being merely sugary — the same fermentation that makes basi work, put to the opposite purpose.

यह भी यहाँ मिलती है: Bastar

Chhattisgarh Plains की खानपान पहचान — पाक माध्यम, खट्टे तत्व, मसाले, मुख्य अनाज और वे विधियाँ जो इसे परिभाषित करती हैं। (6)