BharatSangraha

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Bundelkhand · Central Highlands & Forest Belt

व्यंजन

Two kitchens again, but split by land rather than by faith. The cultivating households of the tank belt eat wheat, gram and buttermilk with ghee at festivals; the forest villages of Panna, Damoh and Lalitpur eat kodo, kutki, mahua and whatever the season gives. The sweets are almost all jaggery-and-flour or khoya-and-syrup, because milk keeps badly here and sugar was expensive.

MaheraमहेराशाकाहारीBreakfast

Coarse jowar or broken rice simmered slowly in buttermilk with ginger, green chilli and a tempering of cumin and asafoetida. Sour, thin and salty rather than sweet — the standard Bundeli breakfast, eaten cool, and the dish most often named when people here are asked what their food actually is.

Bafla and bafleशाकाहारीMain

Wheat-dough balls boiled and then roasted or fried, cracked open, drowned in ghee and eaten with chana dal and a garlic chutney. The Bundelkhand version is plainer than the Malwa one and usually appears at collective meals rather than at home.

RikwanchरिकवाँचशाकाहारीMain

Gram flour cooked with buttermilk to a thick paste, spread, set, cut into pieces and finished in a spiced gravy or tempered dry. A festival dish, and one of the clearest links between this kitchen and the dry western kitchens.

DubriशाकाहारीMain

Rice and moong dal boiled together to a soft mass, finished with ghee and asafoetida. Everyday food, given to the very young and the ill, and the standard offering-meal at household rituals.

Kadhi and bhaatशाकाहारीMain

Gram-flour and buttermilk kadhi, sour and thin, poured over rice. The Bundeli version is soured harder and spiced with less turmeric than the Malwa one, and pakoras in it are optional rather than assumed.

Kodo and kutki bhaatशाकाहारीMain

Little millet and kodo boiled like rice and eaten with dal or buttermilk. Standard food in the forest villages of Panna, Damoh and Lalitpur, largely displaced elsewhere by subsidised wheat and rice.

Mahua ki lata and mahua rotiशाकाहारीEveryday

Dried mahua flowers boiled back to softness and worked into wheat or millet flour, or cooked with til into a dense cake. Sweet without sugar, and eaten in the months when nothing else is sweet.

BhartaशाकाहारीSide

Brinjal buried in the embers of a dung-cake fire until the skin blackens, peeled and mashed with mustard oil, raw onion and green chilli. Cooked over ash rather than flame, which is a fuel decision before it is a flavour one.

Chana and til laddu, and gulgulaशाकाहारीSweet

Roasted gram and sesame bound with jaggery, and jaggery-and-wheat batter dropped into hot oil as small dark fritters. Both are made in quantity for weddings and both keep for weeks.

RaskhirरसखीरशाकाहारीDessert

Rice cooked in fresh sugarcane juice instead of milk and sugar, made only at the crushing season and only where the crusher is running. It cannot be reproduced out of season because the juice ferments within hours of pressing.

Mawa batiशाकाहारीDessert

Khoya balls, sometimes stuffed with dry fruit, deep-fried and steeped in sugar syrup. The festive sweet of the Sagar–Damoh belt and the one most likely to be boxed and carried to a wedding.

LapsiशाकाहारीDessert

Cracked wheat roasted in ghee and cooked down with jaggery. Made at births, at housewarmings and after funerals — the least ceremonial sweet in the repertoire and the most frequently made.

Tank fishमांसाहारीMain

Rohu, catla and small local species netted from the Chandela tanks, which are leased annually to fishing cooperatives. Cooked plainly with mustard oil, turmeric and chilli. It is the region's main non-vegetarian protein and it disappears entirely in a drought year, when the tanks go dry.

Mahoba paanशाकाहारीAfter the meal

Desawari betel leaf grown in Mahoba's barejas — thatched, screened enclosures that hold humidity and keep the vine out of direct sun. A crop that needs constant water in one of the driest districts in the region, which is exactly why it is prized and why it is shrinking.

मुख्य आहार

Jowar and wheat rotiChana dal and arhar dalButtermilkKodo and kutki in the forest beltSeasonal saag, and wild greens in the lean months

मिठाइयाँ

Mawa batiRaskhirLapsiGulgulaTil and gud ladduKhurma

स्ट्रीट फ़ूड

Samosa and kachori at the Jhansi, Sagar and Banda bus standsGulgula and jalebi at weekly haatsRoasted chana and mahua ladduTendu fruit, sold by the handful in the hot monthsBafla plates at fair grounds

पेय

Chhaachh, salted and spicedMahua liquor, pot-distilled from the dried flowerGud sharbat and cane juice at the crusherThandai at HoliStrong sweet tea, which displaced buttermilk as the day's first drink within two generations

Bundelkhand का खानपान — ख़ास व्यंजन, मुख्य आहार, मिठाइयाँ, स्ट्रीट फ़ूड और उन्हें कहाँ चखें। (14)