पहनावा और वस्त्र
Assam's textile identity rests on silk it produces itself — muga, which is golden and grows nowhere else on earth, eri, which can be harvested without killing the moth, and pat. The gamosa, a plain white cotton towel with a red border, does more social work than any other cloth in the state.
क्या पहना जाता है
Mekhela chadorWomen
A two-piece garment — the mekhela wrapped and pleated at the waist, the chador draped over the upper body and tucked into it. Unlike a sari it is never a single length of cloth, and the pleats fold towards the wearer's right.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and ceremonial
RihaWomen
A narrower third piece worn between the mekhela and chador, and traditionally the garment a bride wears. A riha-mekhela in muga is the wedding set.
किस मौके पर: Weddings and ceremony
GamosaEveryone
A rectangle of white cotton with a red woven border, often with motifs at the ends. It is used to wipe the face, tied round the waist while working, hung at the altar, wrapped around a xorai, and — most importantly — draped around a guest's neck as a mark of respect.
किस मौके पर: Constantly
Dhoti with seleng chadorMen
A white dhoti with a long shawl over the shoulder, worn for Bihu performances, weddings and religious occasions.
किस मौके पर: Ceremonial
Dokhona and AronaiBodo women and men
The dokhona is a single wrapped garment worn by Bodo women, in bright ground colours with woven geometric motifs; the aronai is a narrow scarf given, like the gamosa, as a mark of honour.
किस मौके पर: Everyday and festive
JapiEveryone
A conical hat of bamboo and tokou palm leaf. The plain japi is a farmer's sunshade; the decorated sorudoi japi, with coloured cloth and mirror work, is a gift of honour and hangs in most Assamese homes.
किस मौके पर: Fieldwork, and ceremony
बुनाई और कपड़े
Muga silkजीआई टैगSualkuchi, Upper Assam
A naturally golden silk from the semi-domesticated Antheraea assamensis moth, reared outdoors on som and soalu trees. It cannot be dyed to advantage and it is not bleached; it gets glossier with every wash and is expected to outlast the wearer. Assam accounts for effectively the entire world supply; small-scale rearing exists elsewhere in the northeast, but nowhere else at commercial volume.
Eri silkजीआई टैगBodoland (Kokrajhar, Chirang) and across the state
Spun rather than reeled, from cocoons the moth has already left — hence "peace silk" or ahimsa silk. Warm, matte and heavy; used for shawls and winter wraps. The GI registered in 2024 is specifically Bodo Eri Silk, filed by the Bodo traditional weavers of Kokrajhar and Chirang; eri in general is not itself GI-protected.
Pat silkSualkuchi
Bright white mulberry silk, the third of Assam's silks, woven with muga into festive mekhela chadors.
Assam Gamosaजीआई टैग
Granted a GI tag in 2022, partly to protect handloom weavers from machine-made imports of an object that functions as a cultural emblem rather than a commodity.
Bodo Dokhona, Aronai and Jwmgraजीआई टैगBodoland region
Bodo woven textiles registered as GIs in 2024, alongside Bodo eri silk and other items of the community's material culture.
गहने
Junbiri (crescent)DugdugiGam-kharu (bangle)Loka Paro (twin-bird)ThuriyaBenaGolpataKeru