BharatSangraha

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Bengal Delta · Middle & Lower Gangetic Plain

पहनावा और वस्त्र

A humid, flooding country produced a wardrobe of unstitched cotton that dries fast and can be hitched above the water. The delta's weaving belt specialised early in fineness rather than in ornament — the reputation of Bengal cloth in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries rested on thread count, not on pattern — and its two surviving cotton sari traditions still divide along exactly that line, one chasing lightness and one chasing durability.

क्या पहना जाता है

Saree in the atpoure drapeWomen

The older Bengali drape: no petticoat pleats at the front, a wide box pleat, the end brought over the left shoulder, round the back and over the right, with the keys of the house knotted into it. It was designed to be worked in and is now mostly worn at pujas and weddings.

किस मौके पर: Household and ritual, now largely ceremonial

Garad and korialWomen

Undyed off-white silk with a red border, woven from unbleached yarn so the cloth stays ritually pure. Garad has a plain body; korial carries a heavier border and pallu. Both come off the Murshidabad silk looms.

किस मौके पर: Durga Puja and ritual occasions

Dhoti and panjabiMen

A fine cotton dhoti with a narrow border, worn with a long loose panjabi. The Bengali dhoti is draped without the rear tuck used further west, which makes it quicker to hitch and quicker to lose.

किस मौके पर: Festivals, weddings and formal visits

Topor and mukutBride and groom

A conical white sholapith crown for the groom and a smaller headpiece for the bride, made of pith cut from a marsh plant and assembled without glue in the older work. They are single-use by design and are made in the same workshops that dress the Durga idols.

किस मौके पर: Weddings

Lungi and gamchhaMen

A tube of checked cotton and a thin woven towel that doubles as a headwrap, a filter, a sling and a net. The gamchha's open weave is the point — it dries in minutes in air that never dries anything else.

किस मौके पर: Daily work, especially on and near water

बुनाई और कपड़े

Santipur sareeजीआई टैगNadia (Santipur and Fulia)

Very fine cotton with a woven border, from a weaving town whose looms are documented from the fifteenth century. The type is judged on the closeness of the weave and the thinness of the yarn rather than on motif, and holds a registered geographical indication.

Dhaniakhali sareeजीआई टैगHooghly (Dhaniakhali)

A tighter, heavier cotton than Santipur's, woven at a higher beat so the cloth holds its shape and takes daily wear. Registered as a geographical indication. Between them, Santipur and Dhaniakhali map the two ends of what a cotton sari can be asked to do.

Fulia TangailNadia (Fulia)

Jacquard-bordered cotton saris woven at Fulia by weaving families whose craft lineage runs back to the Tangail looms of the eastern delta. The technique arrived with the weavers and was rebuilt on new looms rather than copied from cloth.

Murshidabad silkMurshidabad (Islampur, Mirzapur, Jiaganj)

Mulberry silk reared, reeled and woven in the same district — one of the few remaining Indian silk clusters that still runs the whole chain locally. It supplies the garad and korial trade and the base cloth for Murshidabad's block and batik printing.

Nakshi kanthaजीआई टैगNadia, Murshidabad and the eastern delta

Worn-out cotton saris and dhotis layered and quilted together with running stitch drawn from their own borders, the stitch itself making a rippled ground and a figurative field of lotuses, fish, boats and household scenes. Registered as a geographical indication on the Indian side; the tradition's densest figurative work belongs to the eastern delta.

Baluchariजीआई टैगMurshidabad (originally Baluchar), now woven at Bishnupur

Figured silk with narrative scenes in the pallu. It is named for Baluchar, a Murshidabad village on the Bhagirathi, and moved west to Bishnupur after the trade there collapsed — a delta craft that now carries a Rarh address.

गहने

Shakha and pola — conch-shell and red coral bangles put on at marriage and worn as a pairLoha, an iron bangle, worn with them and often bound in goldSitahar and chik — the long chain and the tight collar of Bengali gold workNath, worn through the left nostril at a wedding and often removed afterBaju and mantasha, upper-arm and wrist pieces in filigree

Bengal Delta का पारंपरिक पहनावा — कपड़े, हथकरघा बुनाई, जीआई टैग वाले वस्त्र और गहने। (11)